Aidan Roberts flashes Momentum (8B+)

EDITORIAL

15 May 2023

Aidan Roberts has flashed Momentum (8B+) in Valle Bavona, which was put up by Nalle Hukkataival in 2012 as an 8C. On Insta he comments, "Between intermittent rain showers and wavering motivation at the idea of a soggy top-out slab, a weather window opened and I was able to top out on my flash attempt, a great feeling!"

Last autumn Roberts made the second ascent of Alphane (9A) and including also several 8C+, he is a contender for having the most impressive tick list out there.
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EDITORIAL

5 December 2022

Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

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Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…

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EDITORIAL

21 January 2023

Is onsight climbing on life support?

During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…

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EDITORIAL

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8a’s Boulderers of 2022

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