20 September 2016

Adam Ondra's fairytale story from Paris

Adam Ondra, the double World Champion from 2014, shares his thoughts on the World Championship in Paris, where he was #1 in Lead and #2 in Boulder. "Additionally, there is finally one Instagram account which is official and truly mine." - My overall feeling from Paris is for sure like a dream. I think the whole 2016 season just worked out perfectly in order to be 100% prepared for Paris. Even though I have been focusing on my outdoor projects, I have been in the strict training regime in between the trips and thus trained indoors a lot anyways, especially in the spring season when I was finishing university. And just those few weeks before Paris, I could transform all the training into the plastic - like being used to the PU holds and style of WC routes and boulders. Every day before Paris my confidence was growing and the last training in Innsbruck was extremely satisfying. Being in Paris, I felt strong and confident every single round and that is obviously incredibly important in order to stay calm relaxed, yet motivated. In bouldering finals, I was slightly disappointed also because I felt so good in the previous rounds and I knew I did not make my best, but of course 2nd place itself is great. So disappointment was mainly about my own performance. It is completely possible that if more big names had made to the finals, I would not have been 2nd. But that is the game. I just think that for semifinals and finals of World Championships, the style of setting could have been more diverse. The boulders were mainly technical and feet were smears. It was not necessarily bad for me, I actually like technical problems, but in my opinion, the World Champion should be decided on wider range of problems. But it was bit of a problem of the bouldering wall, which was bit too much vertical/slabby, so the routesetter must have had hard time to set more diverse problems. Lead was just a fairy-tale story. I was a little afraid that I would be a little tired, climbing 5 days in a row, but it did not really affect that much. I think I just got so fit due to the PUC training. I felt a little tired on the warm up, but as soon as I started climbing in the final route, I just felt great. The route was very nice to climb, with different sections and making that final dyno and enjoying the crowd going crazy just before making the easy topout - it was a lifetime experience... Unforgettable... (c) Eddie Fowke catching the moment once again.
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
18 March 2026

Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions

Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
81
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
26 January 2026

Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)

Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
69
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
23 March 2026

Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia

Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
63
Related
25 March 2008

Ondra does something hard, again...

Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+. A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโ€ฆ
0
22 September 2008

8c+ (9a) by Adam Ondra & Bock

Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โ€ฆ
1
28 September 2008

European Youth Series - Imst

1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL 1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!
0