Adam Ondra gives interesting 10a thoughts

Climbing has published a long, great in depth interview with Adam Ondra by Chris Noble with many interesting thoughts from the #1 climber in the world of the last six years. (c) Petr Pavlicek "World Cup Lead is the ultimate fitness test, because the climbing is so continuous... And modern World Cup bouldering is now almost a parkour style... My biggest climbing strength is making strange moves like drop-knees and high heel hooks, and rocking up over my feet. I can rest in totally different positions from other climbers because my hips are quite flexible. As long as I have a high foot and I can rock up on to it, I can release the weight on my hands and recover, even if I’m holding onto really bad holds. Having flexible hips is probably my biggest strength. Raw power and campus moves are my biggest weaknesses... In terms of injury I’ve been really lucky. I’ve never had an injury for more than five to seven days... In my opinion, it’s very dangerous if your parents are also your coaches... This means training three times a day, six days a week. I do some campusing, some bouldering, and endurance training every single day... Regardless of how strong you are, the more relaxed and happy you are, the better your results will be... I find that if I eat too much meat I’m not as strong. But at the same time if I go two weeks without any meat—I also feel weak. So I eat meat once or twice a week... For sure I’m capable of climbing 9c [5.15d], and I can imagine what 10a might look like, but someone stronger and younger than me will come along, and hopefully they will succeed on a 10a."