5 October 2023
Adam Ondra FAs Fantazija (9a+) and onsights two 8cโs
Adam Ondra has had yet another day for the record books by onsighting two 8cโs and putting up a 9a+ in Ter. The 30-year-old has now onsighted 95 routes 8c to 9a and redpointed 76 routes 9a+ to 9c. (c) Kuba Sobotka
Fantazija (9a+): โJust right of Umetnost. Bolted by Rajko Zajc and tried by Jernej Kruder. Easier intro into a very intense power endurance masterpiece. Tried one day with wrong beta and got quite close, next day [did it] first try. Fantastic route, but mostly if your span is at 180cm at minimum. If you are shorter, it might go but much harder.โ
Kingslayer (8c): โHard to find a route so perfect, anywhere in the world. Not so clear for onsight, had to dig quite deep.โ
Inferno do vrha (8c): โAlmost as good as Kingslayer :-D epic fight to end the day.โ
Fantazija (9a+): โJust right of Umetnost. Bolted by Rajko Zajc and tried by Jernej Kruder. Easier intro into a very intense power endurance masterpiece. Tried one day with wrong beta and got quite close, next day [did it] first try. Fantastic route, but mostly if your span is at 180cm at minimum. If you are shorter, it might go but much harder.โ
Kingslayer (8c): โHard to find a route so perfect, anywhere in the world. Not so clear for onsight, had to dig quite deep.โ
Inferno do vrha (8c): โAlmost as good as Kingslayer :-D epic fight to end the day.โ
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Matjaz Zorko has done Umetnost (9a) in Ter after some ten sessions. "I can say that all the lines in this sector are so beautiful especially this one of course.โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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