Abigail Humber redpoints Spannuth Armada (8c)

Abigail Humber has completed Spannuth Armada (8c) in Summersville Lake. ”Such a unique route that deserves more ascents. Technical yet powerful climbing with a spicy foot cut at the end. Psyched to get the FFA of this amazing line. :)” (c) Bill Holman

Can you tell us more about Spannuth Armada and the two year gap between this 8c and the first 8c you completed?
After the Youth World Championships last summer, which were my last competition as a youth competitor, I wasn’t really sure what direction I wanted to go in regarding climbing’s role in my life. I had a lot of accumulated fatigue, and I knew I needed to change my approach to training and climbing performance. I also started college this year, and I wanted to make sure I wasn’t so focused on climbing that I couldn’t develop the other parts of myself. I also decided to go vegan for ethical reasons. (I was originally concerned that choosing to go vegan would negatively affect my climbing, but I actually feel great!)

After taking some time off, I was looking for something to motivate me and I saw some video footage of Spannuth. The idea of going outside again and getting strong enough to try Spannuth got me psyched on climbing and training again.

In terms of why it took me two years to send another 8c, I try to always follow what gets me psyched in the moment. While I was in youth I was splitting my time between competitions and outdoor climbing, so I had limited time. I also spent a significant amount of time on Thug Life (8b) in the Red River Gorge, because it was a significant route to me and a dream project of mine (even though it was “only” 8b). I spent a lot of time in the gym last year though, since I wanted to perform well in my last year as a youth competitor. It payed off, because I was able to get 2nd at Nationals and placed 17th at Youth Worlds!