11 August 2019
A female Speed specialist will qualify to the Olympics
From a female Speed specialist perspective, the bouldering qualification results could not be better. From the complete results; #37 Anouck Jaubert, #49 Andrea Rojas, #57 Aleksandra Miroslaw, #65 Yiling Song and a total of just 89 participants, compared to 122 last year. Further more, as just half of them are god Combined climbers it will be relatively easy for the best Speed specialist to make it to the Top-20. As a matter of a fact, it could be two or in theory three, making it to the Top-20 Combined final. In reality, the winner of each discipline will most certainly make it to the Top-8 final and there finish at least Top-4.
It should be noted that it says that only the Top-7 will get an Olympic ticket but with the max two country quota and four Japanese and five Slovenians Top-21, it just might be that even #10 will get a ticket. In practice this actually open up for two female speed specialists making it through.
In theory, this means that we could end up with three or even four female Speed specialist in Tokyo 2020 and with a chance that one of them will get a bronze in the Olympics although being dead last among the boulder and lead specialist in every round. The one who loose with Speed specialist getting good other results is Miho Nonaka as she is the fastest non-Speed specialist.
All the above speculations are based on the multiplication format that will be used in Combined. Finishing 1 * 20 * 20 = 400 is a better results than 7 * 8 * 8 = 448. In the final 1 * 7 * 8 is better than 4 * 4 * 4.
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