6 April 2017
A bolted project gets trad ascents by Larcher and Zangerl
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have opened a 15 year bolted project by only using trad gear. They have graded Gondo Crack 8c R meaning there is risk for injury if you fall at the wrong place. (c) Richard Felderer
Jacopo reports on Facebook: "Maybe it's not as safe as with bolts, but for us it made more sense to climb it in this way. We called it 8c (or 5.14b R). The bolts are obviously still there, so you can choose the rules of the game you want to play. You should go and check it out: it's really cool! Thumbs up to Barbara Zangerl for doing her hardest trad climb up to date!"
Barbara comments to 8a, "We didn't open a new route, it was there bolted since 15 years ago and you can't take the bolts off; it is not our route. People have been trying that route on bolts since 15 years ago and we have to respect that.
Of course it makes more sense and we would have been happy to find that route without bolts but it is a old bolted project. You can't just go and remove bolts. It is not our piece of rock."
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