16 February 2017

8c+ by Adam Ondra - OS or RP?

Adam Ondra has done Politicamente Corruptos 8c+ in Margalef, which he has recorded as a redpoint, commenting, "Just did the other 8c+ seven years ago which share the same start (more or less 7c+)...so going ethically into the detail, hard to say if it is actually an onsight." The photo by Henning Wang is from Neanderthal 9b, which is Adam's current project. Basing on the 8a Practice & Ethics we think this is just OK to call it an onsight and many would do. It is impossible to use a black or white onsight definition as climbers often get some onsight beta hanging out at the crag and sometimes even belaying a friend. Thus, onsight is often in the grey zone. Let us say that the shared start was just a 6a climb - then everyone would agree on Adam's onsight. This is 8a's green light for onsight. Do you agree? "When the shared part of the climb is more than a full grade lower, i.e. two 7c+ routes have the same 6c start."
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