NEWS

Here is a list of all the boulders with 30 ascents and more between 6A+ and 7A that have the highest star quality average. Almost all are found in USA which Bishop as the most frequented area and only one boulder is found in Fontainebleu. Check the comment for the full list down to 2.1 stars. 7 Bishop 3 Hueco Tanks, Yosemite, 2 Chironico, Cresciano, Joe's Valley 2.5 Trick or Treat 7A HP 40 2.4 JBMFP 6C Joshua Tree, Sign of the Cross 6A+ Hueco Tanks, Drone Militia 7A Bishop, 2.2 Suspended in Silence 6C Bishop, Viper 6C+ Bishop, Cocaine corner 6C Yosemite, Pinch Overhang 6C Horsetooth, Das Auge des Waldes 6B+ Zillertal, Fight or Flight 6B Hueco Tanks

9a FA by Kleman Becan - Water world

Kleman Becan has written a nice blog about his FA of Water World 9a in Osp. Klemen bolted it almost two years ago and at first he could only do two of the first 30 moves which is followed by a 30 m 8b. Than the rain come creating a small lake under so he had to go by boat or tyrolean traverse to the route. The Slovenian has been a successful competition climber since 1996 having won one Lead World Cup and been #2 in two Boulder WC's.

Francis Sanzaro, who has published A Philosophy for Bouldering (Stone Country Press, 2013), shares his thoughts on what kind of boulders will be the first graded 9A. What do you think? "Are the hardest boulders the ones not with a specific style, but with many styles "within" a problem? I wager that those who are able to climb at the limit of their style and also work on their practice until they can climb at the limit in their non-style, will send the first 9A. It is this type of problem that will see fewer repeats than the problem which gets worked on for years by someone, since being able to have no style is more difficult than working your style to the limit.

9a+ in Oliana by Ramonet

Ramon Julian has after six tries over three days done Power Inverter 9a+ in Oliana which was open by Chris Sharma in 2010. In total, the 159 cm tall, has done ten 9a+ during the last eleven years and he has won 20 World Cups including one Euro and two World Champions. Combining rock and competitions, Ramonet has been the most successful climber the last 12 years.

"Topping out" by down climbing hang

Sidney Trinidad won the USA bouldering nationals youth B in a superior style. Her she is "topping out" one spectacular problem that finished with several down climbing moves. The guys did it by hanging in their toes... click on the picture to see how amazed the route setter was. (c) @justfab Video Mirko Caballero, who also won, explains the problem, "Well the start hold was at the same height than the finish to the left. You had to climb up (you can see some of the holds to the right of Sidney. Then came the sequence where you had to jump down onto the big volume. The jump was committing as you had to let go both hands to land onto the downward slope." Complete results

The quickest way to add popular ascents is to start writing the crag or sector name in the "Search & Add Ascent" box up to the right. You will come to the Tick List of the Crag/Sector and then it is just to find your climb and click Add. The most popular way to add ascents is to click "Add" in the member section to the right. Then you can write the name and crag yourself and add many details directly. We also have the "Add Via Mobile" possibility where you can easily add ascents fast via your mobile. You can also add ascents via our 8a App.

8C in Font by Iker Arroitajauregi

Iker Arroitajauregi has after six days of projecting made the third ascent of Jan Hojer's Jour de Chasse 8C in Fontainebleau. The 36 year old has previously done one 8C, Txapela and numerous 8B+'s. Interview in spanish with many videos.

Great innovative locking carabiner from Edelrid

There exist probably a dozen different innovative locking carabiners, beside the original screw carabiner. Actually, most companies in the industry have presented technically nice advanced ideas trying to optimize the overall handling/safety issues. All of them are 20 - 200 % more expensive, except the brand new Strike Slider from Edelrid which is actually cheaper than the original screw carabiner. The Edelrid innovation presented at Friedrichshafen is also the smallest, lightest and quickest to clip in on the market. In the beginning, it feels pretty scary to use as it is so slim and that it so easy to open. You just put your thumb on the outside lock and drag it down two mm to unlock it. It is almost as easy to open as you open your quick draw gate when you put it in the bolt hanger! In theory, of course a screw carabiner is normally a bit safer. As a matter of a fact, the safety focused climber could actually use the Strike Slider on both ends of the quick draw as it works great also clipping in the rope.

Moritz Perwitzschky has done Ronin 8b+ (c) in Frankenjura. "First 8c :)! 5th go, maybe 8b+, but nevertheless nice 3D- roof-climbing with one hard bouldery section." In January, the 14 year old, onsighted four 8a's in Geyik Bayiri.

Frankenjura is the epicentrum in the world with 100 routes 8c and harder. However, when it comes to recorded ascents during the last year, four spanish crags, within two hours from Lleida, are in top of the list. 86 Rodellar 82 Siurana 79 Margalef 73 Oliana 53 Frankenjura