NEWS

Domen ยŠkofic focus on enjoyment makes him #1
Domen ยŠkofic was in the Top-4 in the last four WC in 2014 and then he did his first 9a+, Papichulo. After training very hard this year, he started out being #9 in the European Championship and continued with somewhat disappointing results in the first four WCs: 9 - 9 - 3 - 7. In the last comp in Puurs, he topped out all the four routes. ยฉVincent Lescaut How can you explain the great progress? I was in great shape all the time this year, in much better than last year but I think the expectations killed me in the start of the season and then I relaxed again, didn't care and just started to enjoy climbing again. How will you prepare before the last WCs and how to deal with expectation now? I will train on as I did up until now and I have no expectations for the last two stages. I just want to be relaxed and enjoy climbing in the comps! Expectations killed me in the start of the season so I don't want it to happen again! I love outdoors and I think if the weather will be fine I will go in the rock for few days.

9a+ by Daniel Woods in Flatanger
Ethan Pringle reports on Facebook that Daniel Woods has finally done the 60 meter long upside-down climb, Thor's Hammer 9a+ in Flatanger. Daniel has been working on the route for some weeks in mainly bad conditions and actually already eleven days ago, he did fall on the last move after 45 minutes. (c) Courtney Woods "Well, @dawoods89 ended his epic and sent Thor's Hammer!!! In total garbage conditions! Super impressive.

9a by Dave Graham in Flatanger
Dave Graham reports on Facebook that he has done the second ascent of Illusionist in Flatanger, which actually was Dave's first 9a in over two years. In total, he has done 19 routes 9a and harder.

Sport climbing shortlisted for Tokyo 2020 Olympics
IFSC comes with the great news that sport climbing was shortlisted as one of five new sports for Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. More info here. The Olympic medals will be given to the best Combined ranked climbers in three disciplines; Lead, Bouldering and Speed. In total 20 female and 20 male will be allowed to compete. Here are the results form an 8a poll based on some 4 000 unique votes. Which discipline in the Olympics 2020? Combined: Lead, Boulder and Speed 21 % Lead 15 % Bouldering 32 % Deep Water Solo 6 % Climbing should NOT be in the Olympics 25 %

28 September 2015

WC Puurs finals

Skofic and Kim win with four straight tops in Puurs
Domen Skofic and Jain Kim won with four straight tops making it possibly the best WC in 2015. (c) Slovenija Climbing Team 1. Domen Skofic SLO - Jain Kim KOR 2. Jakob Schubert AUT - Mina Markovic SLO 3. Ramon Puigblanque ESP - Anak Verhoeven BEL Complete results

Before the last, or actually the second last as Kranj is "Provisional", it is very much an open affair among the Top-4 male. If Adam Ondra wins in China, Gauthier has to be #4, Jakob Schubert #2 and Romain Desgranges 1. Gauthier Supper 357 - Mina Markovic 420 2. Jakob Schubert 327 - Jessica Pilz 345 3. Romain Desgranges 307 - Jain Kim 334 4. Adam Ondra 290 - Anak Verhoeven 290 5. Domen Skofic 282 - Helene Janicot 227 Among the female, Mina Markovic has already secured the title if there will be no WC in Kranja and otherwise, all Top-4 could challenge her. In theroy, this could mean the Slovenians are less interested to organize the last event in Kranj. On the other side, if Domen wins in China, he will have good chances to get the overall title and pleasing his home crowd in Kranj.