NEWS

Rodellar Cleanup day
6 October 2015

Rodellar Cleanup day

Sierra de Guara and the Canyon of Mascรบn River are visited by all kinds of groups every year. Hikers, canyoneers, trail runners and of course climbers enjoy their attractive locations often not taking enough responsibility for what they leave behind. The Climbers Association of Rodellar, in collaboration with other institutions and businesses in the area, has decided to organize a cleanup day of the Mascรบn Canyon, in order to minimize the impact that our activity, as well as other groupsย’, generate each year, and also to create awareness of the importance of the small gestures that everyone can make to keep this place in the best possible condition. Therefore we call all climbers, as well as anyone else who feels a special affection for Rodellar and its surroundings, to participate voluntarily on October 11th in this day of maintenance, cleaning and fraternization, and we thank all associates for their support in organizing this event which we hope will continue in the years to come.

8a+ again by Urko Carmora (one leg)
Urko Carmora, world champion with one leg, has done his second 8a+, Paideia in Rodellar, which is 35 meters long. Urko started climbing when he was 14 and lost his leg in a traffic accident when he was 16. He continued climbing directly after he left the hospital and at the beginning he used a prosthesis. "I did a lot of multi-pitch climbing. But now when I sport climb it is much better to just jump with one foot." ยฉ Manabu Yoneyama.

Thor's Hammer 9a+ also by David Graham
Dave Graham reports on Facebook that he has done Thor's Hammer 9a+ in Flatanger. It was put up by Adam Ondra in 2012 and just during the last six weeks, it has gotten another four repeats by Megos, Schubert, Woods and Pringle. Dave has been one of the leading climbers in the world for the last 15 years and this was his first 9a+ since 2007. ยฉ Cameron Maier "Somehow battled through the lowest crux, the wet holds sucked, five bolts of infinity, they're passed tense, red-lining recovery, freaking out in the rest, kneebar number one, set forth onward, followed through in redpoint crux, into kneebar number 2, realized current location, intense fear of punting poisons mind, fear of poison cleanses mind, focus is light blinding light, zone is acquired, operating space is available, full syncronicity in effect, zenny but hectic, slow motion and fast foreword, resting ritual complete, upward motion, theres still energy, checkpoint, checkpoint, checkpoint, toe-hooks, foot jams, dont forget the sequence, kneebar number 3, un-sequence-able rail, you will make you fall, doubt, thoughts, sunset light, rock is gold, pupils adjusting, thoughts are gone, resting is over, movement, beta is forgotten, peace is chaos, the rail is shuffled, the heals lock, anchor is clippedโšกElation is real!

First 8b onsight by Diego Marsella (43)
Diego Marsella has onsighted Maskoking 8b in Rodellar which actually is an interesting personal best as he is 43 years old and started climbing 30 years ago. "I train three times a week. Quality six routes from 8a to 8c around 20 - 40 moves. Two times free boulder and campus board. The last day physical training and interval bloc. I am working in a gym as a route setter."

Cathy Wagner is having her best year ever, although being 50 years old she has done 57 routes 8a and harder. Two days ago she did En mรฉmoire des mutants in Pic st Loup giving the confirmed 8b a personal grade of 8a. " Perhaps 8b for those climbers who still use no knee bars and...have no brain. Basically second go."

Dyno World Record by Celine Cuypers (16)
During the Puurs Worldcup, 16-year-old Celine Cuypers from Belgium broke the world record (220 cm) by 17,5cm, to 237,5 cm. Check her great website with a short video "Encouraged by Nils and without any preparation, except for practicing some dynamic moves on the boulder at which I am not so good, I decided to give the dyno competition a shot." The 16-year-old is a previous successful competition climber who has done routes up to 8b+ and onsights up to 8a.

9a+/b FA in Frankenjura by Alex Megos
Alex Megos reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of a 9a+/b in Frankenjura. In total, there are now 24 routes 9a and harder in Frankenjura out of which Alex Megos has done the FAs of six. Megos's latest is also the first with a slash grade. "Steep and HARD! After 5 days of trying did the first ascent of "Supernova"!!! In my opinion the hardest route in the #frankenjura o I would give it 11+ (9a+/b)! Thanks to Joshi Schulz for letting me try that thing and thanks to @arnaudpetit_climb for the picture!!!