During the last ten years we have moved from boulder grade inflation to deflation. Based on the original grades, the boulder community has in fact not improved a lot since the beginning of the -00 decade. The best possible way to explain this could be videos in which climbers help the boulderers to select and make fast ascents. To make The story of 2 (grading) Worlds, Dave Graham's classic test piece from 2005 which stopped the grade inflation, is much easier today due to videos. Some actually thought it was an 8C+ at that time but today it is considered a soft 8C. Climbers normally use Time Comparison as a grading indication and thus it is logical that videos have created the boulder grade deflation, especially for complicated boulders. When there are just three straight forward crimps with only one sequence, a video does not have much impact of the number of sessions. Subjective grading and the Time Comparison Grading must always be based on the best sequence. Today, better sequences have been found on The Story of 2 Worlds, which logically explains why it feels easier today. On the other hand, just because you need much less time to repeat a complicated boulder thank to a video, should not effect the grade. If it took you four sessions, including finding the best sequence, to do an 8B some ten years ago and now you just need two sessions, including checking beta videos, it does not mean that the it should be downgraded. Videos and Time Comparison Grading might be the best way to explain boulder grade deflation.

Based on official Google statistics, 8a has increased by some 6% in both the number of visitors and unique visitors in November compared to last year. Yesterday, we had over 10 500 unique visitors, which is the highest number since last spring. All the major banner sponsors will continue supporting 8a also in 2016 and Prana has also signed up, including 350 8a Prana T-shirts. The picture shows the planned new design that we are about to finalize. We are looking for more guys that can help us spell check the database and the news, etc. Just send an email to [email protected]

The 310-page book about the full climbing history by David Chambre could be named the new climbing Bible. Each of the almost A4 size pages are just full of nice stories and great pictures. Having spent about four hours reading it in fascination, I understood that there are many more interesting hours to follow. What a great book! From the 8a visitor perspective, we get more insight of some of the historical grades, indicating that it might be better to start calling Fred Rouhling's Akira a 9a+. Chris Sharma's Es Pontas was given a 9a+ even if 9b is mostly used for it. In general there are many comments that go in line with what 8a.nu has been saying for many years like Action Directe was originally an 8c+/9a but actually slash grades are not used in the Bible. It seems that everything is included in the Bible but Flatanger and from my point of view, also Santa Linya, Ashima Shiraishi and Alex Megos' 9a onsight, should have gained greater focus. On the other hand, 8a.nu and the impact it has on the climbing scene is mentioned on almost one page. "Hence the brilliant but slightly perverse idea of the scorecard, attributing points for each performance and placing climbers in classification enabling them to dream and exploits to improve their position." All in all, paying 49 Euro including free shipping, seems to be the perfect bargain for a very nice Christmas gift.

Vertigo Boulder Contest 2015, the biggest bouldering competition ever organized in Portugal, will be held in Lisbon on the 28th and 29th of November with 5 000 euro to be shared. More than 400 participants are expected. The first day is reserved for the seniors but the youngest can also compete and are eligible for granting the prize money. The second day is for the youth and the format for both of the comps are the same as the IFSC youth rules.

Mina Markovic, the winner of the Lead World Cup 2015 (video), reports on Facbook that she did Histerija 8c+ in Misja Pec in her third go. (c) Luka Fonda
Two days before that, she did Corrida 8c. "It is really nice that after season I can spend days outdoor together with strong climbers and just enjoy on the rock. No expectations, just climbing, sharing good vibes and meeting nice people!"

Climbing Technology has presented an interesting analysis of the child approach to climbing from their team manager Paolo Cattaneo.

Nika Potapova has done Kaj ti je deklica? 8b+ in Osp/Misja Pec. The 12-year-old has previously done two 8b's, the first of which 18 months ago. Video of her hanging 2.40 min on Zlagboard. This is some 40 seconds more than the best female and on the level of the second best male. Ramionet holds the world record at 2.45.

Easier routes sometimes pass unnoticed among so many hard sends and so many big numbers, although sometimes 'smaller achievements', especially when they are reached at precocious ages like this of our two protagonists in this piece of news, are really praiseworthy. Hector Bazán turned 13 in September and more recently sent his second 8c route some 3 months after his first - 'La Florida' in Rodellar. This time the turn came for L'espiadimonis in La Cova Boix at Margalef. A very different style from that of the previous 8c, but as he once said: "it's a place I like and a style that fits me." A little bit older, more exactly 16 years old, Muriel Ruiz de Larramendi, who not long ago was proclaimed the female Spanish sub-18 champion, has jumped from 8a+ to 8b+ with Tekken in Etxauri, as informed by Desnivel. This line, which can be found in the Kale Borroca sector, is a vertical and technical route, where crimps and thin footwork are predominant. News by Esteban Diez fernández / Translation and pic by Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Pirmin Bertle has done the FA Meoise 9b in Charmey after 50 days of working on it and 150 tries, it was the last try the last day before leaving to Buenos Aires with his family for nine months! On the 30th March 2012, The German did two 9a's, Chromosome Y and X in 75 minutes, video. Meoise is a link up which actually goes straight up through two 8B cruxes. Previously in 2015, he did one 8C+ and one 9a+. His 9b blog story is just amazing and here topo for Charmey and Jansegg.