NEWS

Dalmatia a new potential Mecca
Jernej Kruder, runner up in the Boulder World Championship 2014, has made a report with many great pictures from his bolting expedition to Dalmatia in Croatia. - Dalmatia is a bit different from Spain or Misja pec. There are not so many big sectors but if you drive along the coast, you have walls on every kilometer.Pretty much all of them you can see from the road. Now the main thing was Vrulja which you see in the pictures and where there are many caves. Now there are three projects and there is place for some harder things as well.

Timy Fairfield was one of the best climbers during the 90s. Now he is back being 45 with a 8C FA. "This brilliant test-piece is steep, elegantly choreographed, gymnastically specific, savagely powerful, explosive, absolutely hard and 100% natural - the way I like it! This is one of the best lines that I have ever authored."

"THROWBACK" from Timy Fairfield on Vimeo.

8c+ by ร€lex Hernรกndez (17)
Alex Hernandez has done his second 8c+, Sensepell in Catalunia, which Ramon Julian Puigblanque just made the FA of. ร€lex did his first 8c+ two years ago. (c) Ktx Lluciร  Hernandez Nuรฑez

Jessy Pilz: another big breakthrough of 2015
Jessica Pilz started competing in 2010 and has made the podium in the Euro Youth Cup twice. Since 2012, when she begun training with a plan, she has been the best in her age category. Her trainer is Ingo Filzwieser, the Austrian national youth coach, and normally she trains for 4 to 5 times a week for 3.5 hours. Jessy started up in 2015 with being #5 in the Euro Bouldering Championship and finished by being #3 in the Lead WC. Her worst result out in seven WCs was once being #4. In between, she was #3 in the European Championship. Add to that two 8c+'s and more and it is quite obvious that the 19-year-old is in the Top-20 on the 8a Climber of the year list. (c) Ansichtssache / Andi Aufschnaiter - In 2015 at the beginning of the season I had no pressure and no high expectations in the World Cup, because I was still climbing in youth comps and I first thought my highlight will be the World Youth Championship in Arco. But later it turned out that I also could climb onto the podium in adults comps. The explanation is easy: I trained hard for this season and had great support from the Austrian team, sponsors, trainer, friends and parents!! I think talent and luck is also important sometimes and this was might also be part of this season ;) Oh I forgot my goals on rock: haha that's easy I do't have one ! The rock trip to Oliana the last week was a great addition and reward for me. I never expected that I could climb those hard routes, because I am almost never on rock and I have little experience. But I absolutely enjoyed it with a great crew and got used to it ;) After school I want to do more rock climbing (also in Austria), because up to now I had not enough time..

Jessica Pilz signs up with two 8c+'s
Jessica Pilz, #3 in the Lead World Cup, has added two 8c+'s to her new scorecard; Mind Control and Joe Blau in Oliana. "Was sooo happy that I could send it in my 4th try, the jump in the beginning was quite far for me and the last part a mental game :P great end of the year!!" In the WC 2015, she was Top-4 in all seven events. The 19-year-old has won the Youth World Championship three times. On the 8a Climber of the year list the Austrian is #20.

Great 8C progress but we lack 8C+'s
Alex Beale has put together the most comprehensive 8C stats that are out there. The picture shows the great and natural progress in Bouldering. On the other hand, as there is only a couple of 8C+'s, one could suggest that the 8C scale is to wide and, some 8C's should in fact be 8C+'s.

The New Yorker presents a full length article about Ashima Shiraishi including the family background and the fact that her mother was 51 years old when gave birth to Ashima - The most talented climber in the world.