Stephane Hanssens, a well known expedition climber and who was #9 in the Imst Lead WC last year, has done his first 9a, Estato Critico in Siurana. Check his full report with pictures by Christophe Henry, where, among other things, he says, "Since a year or two, I only do sports climbing and competition and no more expeditions World Wide, I knew I was able to do a 9. But mentally some work was still to be done. I had to admit the fact that I was capable to send a 9a, that I have the right to do so. I know it’s kind of strange to say something like that but for me, it’s the truth."

James Webb has flashed Ouroboros in Fontainebleau giving it a personal 8A+ grade. This was his third 8A+ flash during the last ten days in Font. The picture by Eddie Fowke was made two weeks ago when James was #2 in the US Nationals. Congrats! How much beta did you get? Just saw one video yesterday actually of Charles doing it. Did not anybody coach you during the flash in regard to hand and feet placement? Just went climbing and everything luckily stuck perfectly. I mean, I show up with an idea of how its done, then just check the holds and feet and sometimes make minor adjustments to the beta so it suits me. Amazing! Did you do any mental preparation before? No real preparation this time. Was actually feeling quite tired from the morning session so. No expectations really. In general what do you think is the secret of flashing hard? I don't know actually. But if I had to say... it would be confidence.

Neil Hart comes with most extraordinary Boulder news: both James Webb and Charles "Mowgli" Albert have repeated Guillaume Glairon-Mondet's Le pied à coulisse 8C+ in Fontainebleau. Mowgli did it barefoot saying he did a direct version, "It's easier than the original method, but maybe only possible without climbing shoes". You have to wrap your toe around a small spike in a pocket which is not possible with shoes and thus eliminate six moves! Both guys credit Gui-Gui's vision. James think it is more 8C and Charles says his version is 8B+. (c) Clement Perotti/Sandstone media Scorecard comment from James, "First of all major props to Gui Gui for having the vision to create this line! Its a very nice problem hosting both technical and powerful movement. Regarding the grade I personally feel 8C is more appropriate though it is definitely one of the hardest in the forest. Today Charles and I climbed it using VERY different methods. Charles created a direct sequence that eliminates around 6 moves off Gui's line and honestly might only be doable if you're barefoot. For me I decided to repeat Gui's line because I wanted to climb what he thought could be that next level. Nonetheless I'm keen to have it done and really psyched to move forward on other projects! 2nd ascent. 3 days"

Women's Open 1) Alex Puccio - 6510 pts. 2) Jule Wurm - 5005 pts. 3) Akiyo Noguchi - 3160 pts. Men's Open 1) Jakob Schubert - 7710 pts. 2) Jan Hojer - 7290 pts 3) Sam Davis - 6960 pts. More info and pictures

Drew Ruana comes with great news on Facebook and a picture by his mother, Christine."Perfect first day back! I'm beyond psyched to say that I got the FA of 'The Assassin', proposed grade 5.14d/9a. The route revolves around three sections: First section- Repeat Offender. Giant moves on bad holds with poor feet. Very hard to stay composed at the end of the crux.... I'd say it's like v11ish. Maybe harder? It's hard to say. Second section- Villain. The second crux is the crux of Villain. It's a cool transition to go from the first powerful crux to the techy finesse crux. There are 4 moves, and they clock in at around v10/11. The holds are atrocious and he feet are very bad. Third section-White Wedding. After getting pumped silly from the first two cruxes, there is an easy section to recover on. The last crux is around v9."

Jakob Schubert reports on Facebook, "Had lots of fun competing at the Hueco Rock Rodeo yesterday! By repeatind Desperanza in my 1st go of the day I started the day perfectly and was able to win the event."The picture by Ingo Filzwieser was taken last week, when the Austrian did Neon Desert 8B+.

Who are the sport climbers that have had most impact on the development in the history? Here is a draft and feel free to give your comments. 1. Adam Ondra 2. Wolfgang Güllich 3. Chris Sharma 4. Dani Andrada 5. Alexander Huber 6. Fred Rouhling, Ben Moon, Bernabe Fernandez, Yuji Hirayama, Tommy Caldwell, Markus Bock, Kurt Albert

Tendon reports that Adam Ondra has done a couple of 9a's. More info to come. Photo: Definicion de resistencia democrata 9a, Terradets, Les Bruixes, Spain (V. Vrzba).

During the last few years, the use of a stopwatch has increased in order to follow strict training regimes. What is not so known is the fact that resting periods are flexible since everyone is different and the exact perceived load varies. The reason why we rest is that the muscles should recover in between the tries and sets. In practice, you should opt not to lose your maximum capacity during the session, meaning that the longer a session is, the longer resting time should become. During the first exercises, you do not need to rest the full 1 - 3 minutes period, as long as you feel you do not drop in your maximum capacity. Do not look like a robot with the eyes just focused on your smartphone. Instead be smart and learn to adjust your maximum personal resting time in between your schedule exercises.