NEWS

Zangerl and Larcher do Zodiac 8b in Yosemite
Barbara Zangerl, one of the best female Boulderers some eight years ago, reports on Facebook that she has done the 600 meter and 16 pithes long Zodiac 8b together with Jacopo Larcher. (c) Jon Glassberg "This was one of these days I never will forget!! Zodiac free...we invested nearly all the time we had here in Yosemite and finally all the hard work paid off. Both of us freed every single pitch and we both leaded all of the 5.12+ up to 5.13d pitches. Sooooo stoked!!!! I think we did the third ascent---first free climbed by the Huber brothers 2003 and right after repeated by Tommy Caldwell. Thanks for the inspiration! Every single pitch was amazing and we had a looooot of fun up there, the last 5 days." Jacopo writes, "It felt pretty hard for the grade, as most of the hard pitches are really complex to climb, but they are all amazing. Most of them seemed impossible at the beginning, but with dedication and perseverance everything becomes possible."

Yesterday, 8a published an article saying that IFSC had presented the wrong Combined results of the Youth World Championship which also involved one podium. It was based on the official results which now, 36 hours later, have been removed. It should also be mentioned that, just like during the World Championships in Paris, it took more than 48 hours for the Olympic combined sport results to be presented by the IFSC.

The Golden Ticket 8c+ by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch reports on her Instagram account that she has done her third 8c+ in Red River Gorge, The Golden Ticket 8c+. "Hard Proudest accomp- lishment to date! Amazing climb, big moves, double dyno!! FFA" The former 9a route became famous after Ondra's onsight a few years ago. This was the third weekend during the last month where the full time student drove seven hours to the Red River Gorge. In the 8a ranking game, she is #3. (c) Andy Wickstrom

97: Ludovico Fossali ITA 6.43 - Karina Gareeva RUS 9.10 99: Gian Luca Zodda ITA - 7.09 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS 8.47 01: Almaz Algaev RUS 7.35 - Daria Kan RUS 8.69 Complete results

In the forum Nikolina Marinova has brought attention to the fact that it seems that IFSC have presented wrong Combined results of the Youth World Championships. "12.7.3. b) If two or more competitors are tied following the calculation of the arithmetic sum, the tie shall be broken by comparing the โ€˜bestโ€™ result achieved by each tied competitor. If following this the tie remains unbroken, then the second best results shall be compared. If following a comparison of all results the tie remains unbroken, then the head-to-head performance of any competitors remaining tied shall be used to break the tie." In total, Nikolina has found six errors including that Filip Schenk lost his bronze because IFSC did include more people than just the Combined competitors when searching for their "best" results. Complete ranking. Furthermore, while presenting the male juniors result, IFSC has based it on the semifinals instead of finals!

Jorg Verhoeven freeclimbs Dihedral Wall
Jorg Verhoeven has freeclimbed Dihedral Wall 8b+ in Yosemite after 5 days of effort. This is the second free ascent of this route. Tommy Caldwell, the first who freeclimbed it, commented that it has the hardest pitch in Yosemite apart from The Dawn Wall. This is the second freeclimbed bigwall for Jorg in Yosemite after his ascent of The Nose 8b last year. (c's) Jon Glassberg Jorg was accompanied by his partner Katharina Saurwein, who just before Jorg's ascent did her first hard MP by Final Frontier, a ten-pitch-long 8a. Both of them have been among the best competition climbers for the last ten years. Jorg won the Lead World Cup in 2008 and this year he was #3 in a Boulder WC and Katha won one Lead event and was second in a Bouldering WC in 2008. Last year she was #3 in Eiroe Bouldering Championship.

Ondra's fast and ambitious plan for The Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra shares his plan for the Dawn Wall and he will start pushing early on Monday morning, belayed by Pavel Blazek, who has never been on a MP before. They will be accompanied by the legend Heinz Zak taking pictures. "Tomorrow going for the push! First two days of heat and climbing the first 13 pitches, then one restday of rain and then perfect conditions for the crux pitches on day 4. Starting tomorrow at 3 AM to get done as many pitches as possible before the remorseless sun hits the wall." During the FA, Caldwell and Jorgesson managed to do the crux pitches after nine respectively 14 days.

Nine pitches done by Ondra on the Dawn Wall
Pavel Blazek reported on Instagram that at 5.13 AM, Adam Ondra was already up at pitch five. One hour later, they reported that seven pitches had been done and that the plan was to do another two pitches. Here are the grades for the first nine trad pitches: 7b, 7c+, 8a+, 7b, 7c, 8a+, 8b+, 8b, 8a+ You can find Ondra's report here. "First day, good day. 9 pitches in the bag after 6 hours of climbing. Conditions were not the best, but I could still reach the goal of the day. Now hopefully we will survive the heat on the portaledge and take a 28 hours of rest until we continue tomorrow, starting with pitch 10." 8b+, 8a+, 8c, 8a+ are coming up next and then Adam will rest one day continuing with the cruxes on day four; 9a, 9a and 8c+. After that there are still 16 more pitches to go, starting with an 8b+.

The youth World Championships in China are just another example showing that IFSC should include more bonuses in the Bouldering competitions. Almost half of the competitors did not make a single Boulder in the qualification or the direct semifinal. Imagine travelling around the globe and answering questions once you are back home. - How did it go? - I got one bonus. - What do you mean? - I did not top out any of the five boulders but I reached midways on one. - So you were among the lasts? - No almost half the guys had that result. - Sounds stupid and boring travelling around the globe for that? - YES!

Sachi Amma thinks Leonidio will become a future destination
- The hospitality and scenery are one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. Coming alone from Japan and driving along side the coast and just meet so nice people, have touched by heart. The climbing is really nice and the rock quality is high. All the four sectors I have tried have been unique in different ways with aesthetic lines. I think Leonidio has a great potential to be a big climbing destination. Sachi Amma was invited to be a part of the first Leonidio Climbing Festival and to make a short presentation and answer questions. Within minutes, the audience understands that this is really down to earth guy answering in a very personal way, which makes people laugh. - I want to know the secret of the people living in Leonidio. In Japan people do not show so much hospitality. I want to know the secret from this trip. - Do you want us to set up a meeting with a local girl? (The major is asking). - That would be nice since I do not have a girlfriend. - Do you think I could also climb 9a if I started to scream? - That is a nice one :) Which grade do you climb now? You know when I was young my idols were Chris and Adam and they scream a lot so I also started screaming but I think you can get the same animal power just by breathing intensively.