It is not so unusual that an 8a route is mainly 7a until the last bouldery crux. Such routes are seldom popular but there is a great possibility to increase the quality and popularity of such routes - simply add one bolt creating a logical ending of the 7a climb. The same idea can of course be applied on any grade meaning that more great climbing challenges can be created. In practice, the idea with more first anchors also means that you could invite your friend to join you at the crag even if they do not climb at the same level as you. In reality, you do not have to wait until one more bolt has been added in order to create a new anchor and route. Just start climbing and see if you can add a new quality route to the crag and record it with a new name and grade on your scorecard/log-book. Possibly, the FA of the route and the topo producer may think it is a good idea and it would soon become official.

Combined sport climbing will be a part of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. During the World Championships 2016, it took IFSC several days to publish Combined results and the same thing happen for the Youth Championships. IFSC's problem was that they based the results on wrong criteria and 8a presented this also saying that one podium actually was wrong. IFSC deleted the link showing the results but now, 48 hours later, they have still not presented the correct Combined results. In fact, in their sum-up article on the wrong podium is still visible.

More great news from Adam Ondra on his Instagram account which now has 34 000 followers. "Made it to the Wino tower tonight! Deep satisfaction, peace and fire at the same time in my heart and soul. Perfect conditions today and perfect focus. That means only 11 "easy" (5.10 - 5.12) pitches left. We would have continued, but looks like it will rain soon. Which means forced restday tomorrow and hopefully finishing it off on Monday. Detailed report on @blackdiamond and @mytendon soon." Photo @pavelblazek The weather forecast says that it will be raining until 10 am on Monday and then Adam will have to be really quick as the temperature is already dropping to minus 6 at midnight.

Black Diamond has the latest update from Adam Ondra and here is a part of what he says: "“Pitch 16 can be climbed via the dyno or the loop. If I am not wrong, the dyno was given 5.14c (8c+), and the loop is probably easier—I heard something about 5.14a— but due to the crazy character of the climbing, the grade is not relevant. The dyno might be more logical as a line, but the loop pitch climbs the easiest way up the wall, so I consider both equally logical. I tried the dyno a few times in the last weeks, but I thought I would have to invest considerable effort into the dyno with insecure results, and that is why I decided to climb the loop pitch. The loop pitch or dyno pitch is followed by a 5.14a layback. In between, there is no belay, only a no-hands stance. My original goal was to connect the loop pitch into the layback, making a 60-meter mega-pitch at 5.14c at least." Picture from Pavel Blazek who reports that they have already started thinking about trying the Salathe wall and that he also will start working on Adam's new website.

Jorg Verhoeven is probably the second best all-round climber in the world with outstanding achievements in all climbing disciplines. In 2008, he won the Lead World Cup and this year he was #3 in a Boulder WC and just recently he did the second ascent of Dihedral Wall 8b+ on El Cap. The only climber in the world that can match Jorg's extraordinary multi-discipline track record during the last ten years is Adam Ondra but the amazing thing is the performance gap in between them. Adam/Jorg: Decathlon 135 versus 2: Redpoint 9a or harder 21 versus 0: Onsights 8c+ or harder 9 versus 1: Boulder 8C or harder 13 versus 4: WC/Championships Lead victory 5 versus 0: WC/Championships Boulder victory 9a versus 8b+: Big wall You might wonder if there exists any other athlete that is so superior in comparison with the runner-up in any other sport. Possibly the best way to make a quantitative measurement would be to use Decathlon examples. Jorg would probably win such an event being world class in all disciplines at the same time that Adam could win all events competing with a specialist. To be practical, this means that Adam had to run 100 seconds in 9.5, marathon 2.10, high jump 2.40, javelin 90 meters and pole vault 6 meters. Already seven years ago, being 16-years-old, Adam was the best sport climber in the world and possibly one of the best youngsters in all sports. As of 2017, maybe it is about time to put him on the cover of Sport Illustrated asking if he is the best athlete overall in the world? Picture Heinz Zak

Leonidio, with some 900 routes put up since 2013, is #1 in the 8a trend ranking and probably already one of the best winter destinations in Europe. The limestone is colorful and of great quality with all possible features. Route grades vary between 3a and 9a. There is a potential for at least 1 000 more lines. The Panjika cooperative consisting of Germans and local people was the most active at the beginning. Later the Municipality found fundings for several hundreds lines to be opened and the Remy brothers have put up some 300 routes. The Municipality is working hard to set Leonidio at the climbing map especially for the winter, "ghost-town" season and just recently they organized a climbing festival. In January the average temperature is 12 degrees. Most sectors face south, almost always with a nice view. For the rest days, there is not so much to do but of course you can enjoy some historical places and monasteries high up in the mountains. In a direct comparison with Kalymnos, this is a much better winter destination as it is not as windy and it rains much less in Leonidio. The city is also much bigger than Massouri so you will find a wider range of restaurants, shops, etc. Climbing-wise it is on the same level even if it is not as spectacular. Leonidio's advantage over Kalymnos is also that the approach is generally shorter and the multipitches are clearly better. You can go climbing up to 1 000 meter above see level, too. Next spring, Aris Theodoropoulos aka Mr Kalymnos, will present a new Best of Greece guide including the best and latest also from Leonidio and he will correct some of the old-school gradings in the Panjika topo. All the profit from the current topo goes to bolting.

Pavel Blazek reports on Instagram that Adam Ondra has sent pitch #14 on which he fell seven times yesterday. Later he fell on the last move on pitch #15 but Adam plans to go for one more try even if he is worried about his skin. Gradewise, it is interesting that these two 9a pitches have given him so much trouble and it just confirms that what Jorgesson and Caldwell did was amazing.

Adam Ondra has sent both pitches 14 and 15 during his fifth day on the Dawn Wall. He comments on his Black Diamond blog: “Day 5. As day 4 was a complete disaster, I still felt a lot of pressure, as I knew that sending pitch 14 is almost a must. But today, my mindset was different. I tried to make jokes, being relaxed and focused only just before the climbing. I was lucky enough to be precise and send pitch 14 (5.14d) on my first go after a little warm up.⠀ ⠀ “Pitch 15 (5.14c or d) was next. This pitch is much longer and has a very nice and enjoyable 5.13c intro (with a few normal holds and even footholds) and a heinously sharp boulder problem at the end of the pitch. After chalking up the holds, I had a heartbreaking fall, a few moves below the jug of glory... and I had to face a hard decision. Should I give it one more try and try risk cutting my skin open or wait for tomorrow? It was rather unsure whether my skin would be better the next day. I took the first option. I started climbing again and despite feeling strong, my skin was really soft and sweaty. On the jug below the boulder problem, I almost thought my decision was wrong. I kept going nevertheless and somehow made it through the crux, where I had to improvise with my beta, as I was unable to reach with my foot all the way due to my sliding fingers from the razorblades. Getting to the anchor was emotional of course.⠀ ⠀ “Let's continue tomorrow. Still quite a few exciting pitches, but none of them are as sharp and hard as these two.”⠀ (c) Pavel Blazek