NEWS

Nรกvrh zoznamu najlepลกรญch lezcov roku 2016. Komentรกre a nรกzory sรบ ลพiadanรฉ a vรญtanรฉ! Tak ako predchรกdzajรบce roky, aj tento rok je zoznam zaloลพenรฝ na vรฝkonoch v ลกportovom lezenรญ, priฤom vรคฤลกรญ kredit dostali tรญ, ktorรญ robili viac prvovรฝstupov (FA) a boli รบspeลกnรญ vo viacerรฝch disciplรญnach. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Ashima Shiraishi USA 4. Domen Skofic SLO 5. Alex Megos GER 6. Anak Verhoeven BEL 7. Nalle Hukkataival 8. Jain Kim 9. Jakob Schubert 10. Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Tomoa Narasaki, Sean McColl, Stefano Ghisolfi, Alex Puccio, Megan Mascarenas, Melissa Le Neve, James Webb, Alexey Rubtsov, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Laura Rogara, Jonathan Siegrist, Ryuichi Murai, Paul Robinson, Shauna Coxsey, Seb Bouin, Chris Sharma, Karoline Sinnhuber, Isabelle Faus, Romain Desgranges, Dani Andrada, Margo Hayes, Edu Marin, Sebastian Halenke, Jessica Pilz, Kokoro Fujii, Petra Klingler, Piotr Schab, Jan Hojer, David Firnenburg, Christof Rauch, Gabri Moroni, Katharina Saurwein, Martin Stranik, Miho Nonaka, Akiyo Noguchi, Gauthier Supper, Daniel Fuertes, Mathieu Bouyoud, Toshi Takeuchi, Michaela Kiersch, Carlo Traversi, Angela Eiter, Nina Caprez

Pavel Blazek - Dawn Wall belayer interview
Black Diamond has made an interview with Adam Ondra's belayer and photographer, Pavel Blazek, who had never tried a multi-pitch before the Dawn Wall. "Any scary moments on the wall? Oh yeah. One was maybe pitch 10, and he started climbing, and the protection is not awesome. Actually itโ€™s pretty sketchy. And heโ€™s maybe 10 or 15 meters above me and five or six meters runout, and suddenly three copperheads pop out. Ping, ping, ping! I was thinking, if he falls heโ€™s going to be flying way below me. And it was dark. I didnโ€™t even tell him though, and he got through it."

9a again by Patxi Usobiaga
As he writes on his Instagram, Patxi Usobiaga has sent Seta Total 9a in Cuenca. In total Patxi has sent some 20 routes graded 9a or harder and including his extraordinary competition results, he is one of the best climbers ever. Patxi had to stop climbing for several years due to a serious injury in his neck. Now he's back with full strength and shares a nice video of the send.

8c flash by Jain Kim
9 December 2016

8c flash by Jain Kim

Jain Kim reports on Instagram that she has flashed China Climb 8c in Yangshuo. "I had watched just one time and after that I did climb to solve the moves but I really didn't expect that I make topped off! It felt really really psyched even I can't remember how I climb." During the last six years, Jain has been one of the best competition climbers in the world, having won the World Cup three times, and the World Championship 2014.

Barefoot ascents might change some hard core gradings
Seb Bouin dropped one shoe and repeated a 9a and calling it an 8c+. It is somehow logical that if a climb is easier without shoes, the grade should go down. When Charles Albert, who has been climbing barefoot for the last years, repeated an 8C (+) in Font he said it was 8B+ for him, even though he did a much more difficult direct line (9A or harder with shoes). Now the 20-year-old has done an 8C FA barefoot in Font which he thinks is harder with shoes. Once this barefoot trend grows bigger, we might see some downgradings. On the other hand, as the grades are supposed to reflect the difficulty, Charles's latest 8C FA might be considered an 8C+ or even 9A in the future. Charles has developed an amazing skill pulling with his big toes for four years, contrary to the standing stability strength all climbers with shoes train. Even if the best boulderer tried the 8C FA shoeless, it could take years before they would develop the big toe pulling strength needed. In other words, the best boulderers in the world might consider the 8C FA and the direct 8B+ mentioned above equally hard to repeat as Hukkataival's recent 9A. Furthermore, in the future the most difficult route and boulders to repeat might be climbs where you actually need to take the shoes off and put them back on while climbing, as you approach different cruxes.

8C+/9A trav for Iker Pou (39)
Iker Pou, one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, who did Action Direct 9a in 2000 and a 9a+ FA last year, reports on Instagram. "THE ARROITA TRAVERSE 8C+/9A TRAV. (Hard 9a+ route). Very happy for send this old project that always had in mind since more than 15 years. First ascent by @dani_andrada_climb. Thanks @arroitajauregi for the futuristic visiรณn!!Never stop dreaming! Foto @blomuandonisiempreamuerte."

8A+ by Alex Puccio again
Alex Puccio has done her 54th 8A+, Right Martini in Hueco Tanks. "The BIG move was hard to stick from the start. Long Boulder! Psyched to be getting fitter and stronger! :) I LOVE BIG moves!" (c) John Bishop In 2014, Alex was runner-up in the world championship but both in June 2015 and 2016, she badly injured herself in World Cups and had to undergo knee and spinal surgeries. In a Climbing interview she said, โ€œEveryone thinks I heal abnormally fast, but the reality is I donโ€™t give up during an injury," she said. "Some people get injured and sit around waiting to heal. I find ways to work around my injury so I can stay fit and come back sooner than expected.โ€œ

Great bouldering possibilities in Alcaรฑiz
As published by one of the most important newsletters in Spain, the bouldering area of Alcaรฑiz keeps increasing month after month. With more than a thousand lines existing nowadays and its fast development, it will probably become one of the best spots in the future. Some of the best boulderers such as Chris Sharma and Paul Robinson visited Alcaรฑiz (500+ ascents in 8a data base) last year and got impressed with the quality and quantity of the problems. You can see a nice video here. Alcaรฑiz is 2 h north east of Albarracรญn and 3 h south west of Barcelona. Image copyright Chris Sharma

Parรกdne bouldrovรฉ moลพnosti v Alcaรฑize
Podฤพa ฤlรกnku vydanรฉho jednรฝm z najvรคฤลกรญch ลกpanielskych newsletterov sa bouldrovรก oblasลฅ Alcaรฑiz kaลพdรฝm mesiacom. S viac ako tisรญckou uลพ existujรบcich lรญniรญ a vฤaka rรฝchlemu tvoreniu novรฝch problรฉmov mรก Alcaรฑiz potenciรกl byลฅ v budรบcnosti veฤพmi kvalitnou bouldrovou oblasลฅou. Svetoznรกmi lezci ako Chris Sharma a Paul Robinson navลกtรญvili Alcaรฑiz (500+ prelezov v 8a databรกze) minulรฝ rok a boli prekvapenรญ z kvality a mnoลพstva bouldrov. Peknรฉ video dostupnรฉ video tu. Oblasลฅ sa nachรกdza 2h severo-vรฝchodne od Albarracรญnu a 3h na juh od Barcelony. Foto kredit Chris Sharma

Lezenie naboso by mohlo zmeniลฅ obtiaลพnosลฅ niektorรฝch ลฅaลพkรฝch ciest
Prรญkladom toho je Seb Bouin, ktorรฝ vฤaka vyzutiu lezeฤky zopakoval 9a a zhodil ho na 8c+. Je celkom logickรฉ, ลพe ak je cesta ฤพahลกia bez pouลพitia lezeฤiek, tak by mala klesnรบลฅ jej celkovรก obtiaลพnosลฅ. Alebo? Keฤ Charles Albert, ktorรฝ lezie bez lezeฤiek uลพ po niekoฤพko rokov, zopakoval 8C (+) vo Fontainebleau, povedal, ลพe preลˆho je boulder 8B+, aj keฤ vyliezol jeho priamejลกiu a ลฅaลพลกiu variantu (moลพnรฉ 9A s lezeฤkami). Nedรกvno preliezol svoj projekt vo Fontainebleau a ohodnotil ho na 8C naboso, priฤom s lezeฤkami by to bolo pravdepodobne ลฅaลพลกie. Ak sa lezenie naboso stane trendom, je moลพnรฉ, ลพe v budรบcnosti uvidรญme ฤastejลกie zhadzovanie ciest. Na druhรบ stranu sa Charlesove 8C mรดลพe staลฅ 8C+ alebo 9A, ak bude prelezenรฉ v lezeฤkรกch. Charles poฤas ลกtyroch rokov lezenia naboso natrรฉnoval รบลพasnรบ vlastnosลฅ zaberaลฅ prstami na nohรกch, ฤo je presnรฝ opak stability, ktorรบ trรฉnujรบ a dosahujรบ lezci v lezeฤkรกch. Aj keby sa najlepลกรญ bouldristi pokรบลกali preliezลฅ Charlesove 8C naboso, pravdepodobne by trvalo roky, kรฝm by zรญskali potrebnรบ silu a techniku prstov na nohรกch. Inak povedanรฉ, aj najlepลกรญ lezci mรดลพu povaลพovaลฅ spomรญnanรฉ 8B+ a 8C za omnoho ลฅaลพลกie pri pouลพitรญ lezeฤiek, moลพno zrovnateฤพnรฉ s nedรกvnym 9A od Nalleho Hukkataivala. Naviac je moลพnรฉ, ลพe v budรบcnosti budรบ najลฅaลพลกie cesty prรกve tie, v ktorรฝch si lezec musรญ vyzรบvaลฅ a obรบvaลฅ lezeฤku pri tom, ako prelieza rozliฤnรฉ pasรกลพe cesty.