The qualification from Nanjing includes seven male Japanese climbers among the Top 15. The biggest surprise was that Alexsey Rubtsov, the overall WC Leader, ended #23, and that Jakob Schubert finished #37. Other big names that failed to make it to the Top 20 semifinal include Bonder, Gelmanov, Levier, Stranik, Skofic, Piccolruaz, and Sharafutdinov. Among the female competitors, the only sensation that did not make it to the semi was Alannah Yip, who was #5 last weekend. The semi final is streamed live 9-30 GMT+8 on Sunday morning. The final starts 18.30.

Annot A Bloc invites to a bouldering festival 20-21/5, one of the biggest events on natural boulders in Europe. A new area specially brushed for the occasion, with more than 80 new boulders, in all levels, on a perfect sandstone! More than 400 climbers, a big fiesta and lots of free animations. Video trailer - A contest on natural boulders will take place on Saturday for all-level climbers - Some climbing, tree climbing, rope course and rope bridge, free initiation, playful workshops, climbing equipment exchange, a raffle and many other activities will be available for this friendly weekend - A highly colorful evening , with a final at night-time, a giant BBQ, a slideshow and a Baléti (traditional dance)

Nalle Hukkataival is skeptical towards the Golden Piton 2016 he got from Climbing in regards, "Boldest move". "This Golden Piton appears to be awarded for my ascent, if only partially and in a slightly backhanded manner, but more so for how I had the nerve to suggest the grade that I did. “Perhaps Hukkataival isn’t one to contemplate the philosophical implications of new bouldering grades” (quote from climbing). Then Nalle continues; As someone who has dedicated his life to the sport and spends perhaps more time than anyone mulling over issues like this, I find a presumption like this pretty unwarranted." The fact is that Hukkataival invested 80+ days, not counting replica training, which could be compared to max 13 days for doing all the 8c's and 8c+ he has done previously. Based on that he said that he had no other choice than to go for 9A. Here is a Hukkataivalgrading theory and practice article from 2010 with lot of references to 8a articles.

Kamil Ferenc has been climbing very hard under the radar for some years, including seven 9a's and harder, but finally he agreed to come out commenting his latest 9a's. (c) Kasia Berbeka "My favorite country is Spain where I climbed most of my top routes – like Seleccio Anal last week. This is my 7th route of nine grade, my best OS is 8b+. I tried both Seleccio Anal and Natural for the first time in February this year but unfortunately I didn't finish them then. After a month of intensive training mixed with good rests I came back to Santa Linya to finish what I started. First day of April’s trip I tried Seleccio Natural – I felt my training give the result feeling stronger - quite surprised I sent it second go that day. It was a good sign, as both routes have a shared start, but Natural ends more easily. The second day was similar, after warming up I did one try to remember all the moves and sent Seleccio Anal second go on that day. The route was downgraded from 9a+ to 9a/a+ in Feb by my team colleague Piotr Schab. I don’t feel that experienced with the grade, tried only Papichulo out of 9a+ but I found Seleccio Anal easier. Anyway the route fits me perfectly, very much my style of climbing and I am really glad to have sent it. I hope will be able to jump to next level soon. This year will be exciting, I plan to take part in two editions of World Cup, then visit Flatanger and spend autumn in the United States."

James Webb, the #1 flash boulderer in the world, has done it again with Blinded by the Light 8B in Brione. In total, James has now flashed 14 boulders graded 8B and, as a matter of a fact, four of those stand as 8B+ in the topo. Yesterday, he also added two 8A+ flashes to his scorecard in Magic Woods; Jack's broken heart and Riders on the storm which most think is 8B. It total he has now done 32 boulders graded 8A+ so in fact, he is quite superior in the flash style. (c) Eddie Fowke

Mi fog történni mikor Nagy Ferdinánd hazalátogat? - tettem fel magamban a kérdést amikor hallottam, hogy Nándi is elindul az Április elsején megrendezett második Magyar Kupafordulós boulderversenyen, a Monkeyban. Pár héttel korábban mikor Nándi szériázás szinten meg tudta mászni a Tripla élvezet 8A-t többször is Geri-spoton, szembesülhettem hihetetlen erejével. A kérdés viszont nyitott maradt egészen szombat estig. A kemény mezőnynek Patkányék megakemény selejtezőt építettek, a 25 kunsztból már 18darab is elég volt a döntőbe jutáshoz, a legtöbb kunsztot Stroma mászta - rajta csak egy kunszt fogott ki. Nándi 23-at mászott, Zoli és Bajusz Balázs 22-őt, Király Bandi és Dönci pedig 18-at. Mind nagyon kemény versenyző - egyikük sem tegnap kezdte a mászást és bármelyiküknek elsülhetett volna a keze a döntőben. Mégis úgy látszik nyert a sziklán boulderezett órák száma, Nándi csak idén 12db 8A vagy 8A+ nehézségű bouldert mászott meg - ez kicsit árulkodott arról - Ő ebben a selejtezőben nem fog számottevően elfáradni. Végül Fölényesen meg is nyerte a versenyt, mind a 4 döntőben lévő bouldert Top-ra mászva, s ha jól emlékszem egy volt csak amit nem flashelt. Ez egy elég jó ajánlólevél volt neki, hogy belemenjen a hosszú évekig porosodó megaprojektbe és megpróbálja beváltani ígéretét: a Fantom 8A boulder flash megmászás képében. A bouldert Patkány nyitotta valamikor 2011-12évek hajnalán a Remete-korszak felvirágzásának kezdetén. A boulder az ikonikus Kávéfőző boulder barlangjának bejáratánál található, mozgása és a béta pedig annyira összetett, hogy minden egyes megmászó (vagy csak projektelő) ajánlgatta a rekesz söröket a boulder flash megmászásáért. Így vagy 6 rekesz sör gyűlt össze mostanra mire Nándi úgy döntött megpróbálja behajtani a többiek ajánlatát. Sajnos végül nem sikerült a többiek "kizsebelése" - (bár pénztárcánk lájkolja ezt), de a saját béta kitalálása után elég gyorsan elsült a megmászás, majd azért edzésképpen Nándi kétszer is letudta a Fantomot. Nagy gratulálás az eredményekért!

Adam Ondra reports on his Instagram that the prototype shoes he has been using for doing two 9b+', the Miura XX, are now out in the shops. "For years, I have been climbing in these modified Miura's, making first ascent of Change and La Dura dura with them. Now, they are not secret anymore @patxiusobiaga_pucseries was the only other person that possessed them), go and try them. (c) Javi Pec

Stefano Ghisolfi did the FA of Omen Nomen in Arco last week but as he did it in just his third try after finding the right beta, he suggested 8c+ and as so it did not make any headlines in the media. Now Silvio Reffo and Alex Megos have repeated it suggesting an upgrade to 9a. Reffo projected it for few days and Megos did it in a session. What are the important criteria when you give FA grades? I compare the route with other routes I climbed, with the same style, and I compare my shape too. Then I also consider the time I spent on it. For example, I'm trying a project now, I think it is 9a+, because I've already tried it for eight days. It has a similar style to Jungle Boogie in Céüse and probably the same difficulty. For the 9a+ that I've done, I have always worked between two to ten days. (c) Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana. Time Comparison Grading Theory by 8a

Adam Ondra oznámil pomocou svojho Instagramu, že lezečky, ktoré použil na prelezy dvoch 9b+, Miura XX, sú už v predaji. "Už niekoľko rokov leziem s týmito upravenými Miurami, preliezol som v nich Change aj La Dura Dura. Teraz už oficiálne nie sú tajomstvom (@patxiusobiaga_pucseries bol jediným, kto ich mal), choď aj vyskúšaj." (c) Javi Pec

Jo Nesbo, a best selling crime writer with 33 millions copies world wide, has been portraited in Financial Times. He restarted climbing in 2008 and in five years ago, he posted a thrilling story about a 6a flash on Kalymnos in his comments field on his 8a scorecard with 1 000+ routes. Being 17 he made his first appearance in the Premier Soccer league in Norway but an injury stopped his professional dreams. He has a Masters in Economics and has worked as a stock broker. He is also a singer and musician in Di Derre.