Reza Alipourshena and Anouck Jaubert won the Speed event in Villars and in fact, Jaubert did do the final twice as in the first final she had the exact same time as Iuliia Kaplina. Among the guys going for the Olympic, Jan Hojer impressed the most at 8.56 being overall #29 of the 40 participating. Video high lights (c) Eddie Fowke has presented a nice Gallery as always. Complete results

Dani Andrada reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of De battre mon coeur s'est arrêté in Rodellar which was bolted by Serge Casteran. Being uncertain of the grade he choose the double slash grade 9a+ or 9a/+, "to be decided by the repeaters... for me it is a very special route with a history in a very special place." The 42 year old is the one who has put up most hard routes around Lleida, making it the world's most popular hard core climbing area. For some 15 years ago, he started bolting in Santa Linya where he has put up a dozen 9a or harder routes. When it comes to 8a routes or harder, he has done to date 3.715 routes. The often used "A muerte" was also originally his trade mark.

William Bosi, who previously has done four 9a's out of which he gave 8c+ for two, has done a very quick ascent of Evolution 8c+ in Raven Tor. In the last European Cup he was #3 which also was the case for the last Boulder World Championship. (c) Band Of Birds "Evolution is an amazing route with climbing well suited to my style. I had set myself the goal of getting all the moves down in a session but I did not expect to send it. On my first go I went pretty quickly up just doing each move once and finding where to clip each draw. As soon as I got to the top I knew I could do it and believed I had a chance that day. My next attempt was just to put the rope in the second draw for the redpoint attempt. Next it was the send go! Everything came together really well. I climbed the route perfectly up to the half way make where I started getting tired. I almost blew it at the top as I hit the third to last hold with only two fingers but managed to sort myself and finish the route."

Marine Thevenet reports on Instagram that she has done her first 8B, Fragile Steps in Rocklands. In 2014 she was #7 in the Bouldering World Cup and later she left the scene. (c) Clément Lechaptois

Lucien Martinez has done the FA of Descente en Terre Inconnue 9a in Sabart. Here is some of his story on Crimpoil. "The route starts with a short and endurance 8c+ on bad pinches for which I needed very good friction. Then you have to do a very long 8c with good 'batman' rests crossing the whole roof in the cave. That day, weather was incredibly cold for the season around 16 degrees with wind, and I managed to send the route with a great battle at the very end where it's supposed to be done."

Loic Zehani has recorded his fifth 9a, the FA of Mon oncle d'Amérique in Gargantua. Video "The route is a connection by three routes. It begins with the first pitch of an 8b+ (Las Vegas Parano), then without rest you climb the hard section of an 8c (Uncle Spit) and after a rest you finish with an hard fingery section of an 8b (Gargantuesque)."

Steve McClure put up the still unrepeated Mutation in Raven Tor in 1998. It is like an 8A extension to Evolution which 8c+ grade, at the time, was questioned. Mutation took another 21 days after having done Evolution in six days. © Keith Sharples - I just thought Mutation was more than a grade harder than Evolution but as it had also been called 8c, I thought 9a seemed appropriate. Today, I guess Evolution is considered as an 8c+ and has only gotten five repeats since Jerry Moffatt put it up in 1995. Having trad climbed for 20 years, Steve started sport climbing when he was 24. At 26 he made his first 8a redpoint and within a year he did Evolution and two years later the FA of Mutation. In total, without counting variations and link-ups, he has done nine 9a to 9b FAs out of which five are still unrepeated. Adam Ondra did the first repeat of four confirming or even saying that they are at the upper end of the grade. Several climbers over the years have tried Mutation, including brief attempts by Sharma, Ondra, Megos and Brit Pasquill but nobody has come even close. It is possibly time to call for an upgrade to 9a+. This would make Steve the second person in the world doing a 9a+ after Alex Huber but before Chris Sharma's Biographie.

- This was possibly the most spectacular and technical routes (Adam Pustelnik chief route setter) I have seen and the finish where Romain Desgranges with six seconds remaining moved from fourth to first place was extraordinary. The Norwegian coach as well as the personal trainer of Hannes Puman, Reino Horak, was totally unaware of the live streaming fiasco with several breaks in the end, no clock and just Italian commentators. Reino clocked all competitors having to fight with the new six minute rule. As there was no official clock at the scene, several coaches actually used Reino's clock to get more excitement. - I actually think Domen would have won if he was not timed out, Reino continues, which explains why his score was lower than Hannes Puman who set the bar by even climbing faster and with higher feet than Adam Ondra. On the other hand, Ondra did show up with a knee-pad, smaller than the one he used in the final, and found one perfect no-hands rest, smiling and giving thumbs up to the spectators. Among the female, Pustelnik's route was creative art as small holds got bigger, turned into progressively bigger volumes. 16 year old Laura Rogara set the bar, as Puman, climbing technically just perfect. Janja Garnbret, who was the only one to top all three routes, but was timed out in the semi, climbed with ease until a fatal mistake. Last out was Anak Verhoeven and she passed Mina Markovic and the others with at least 15 moves but failed to do the last dyno to the top. 1. Romain Desgranges FRA - Anak Verhoeven BEL 2. Adam Ondra CZE - Mina Markovic SLO 3. Jakob Schubert AUT - Jessica Pilz AUT 4. Hannes Puman SWE - Janja Garnbret SLO 5. Domen Skopfic SLO - Salome Romain Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Djdieifjrj Djdueirur has done the FA of Parálisis Espástica 8C in Navalosa, Spain. (C) Nice pic from Isa Barrero on La valse aux audiex 8B in Font. "Crimpy traverse + exit boulder. 12 movs. Perfect conditions of wind and cold. 3 months :)" This is his second 8C after the first repeat of Soyuz Low 8C FAd by Beto Rocasolano.