NEWS

Alex Khazanov continues his productive days in Rocklands by doing three 8A+' flash; Black Shadow, Benji Carwash and Brain Rapist. The latter he although gave a 8A personal grade. In total, the Israeli has during the last three weeks added 21 boulders 8A+ and harder and he is now #9 in the ranking game.

Ned Feehaly flashes Trust Issues 8B+ in Rocklands
Ned Feehaly publishes in Instagram that flashed yesterday Nalle Hukkataival's problem Trust Issues 8B+ at the Realm in Rocklands. Days ago Ned also did classic Amandla 8B+ too. (c) Shauna Coxsey "Trust Issues - Rocklands. It's not very often you find a problem that suits you so well - heel hooks and huge lock offs on sloping holds. It's a total stunner of a line too. A while ago I set myself the challenge to flash 8b. A few times I've been painfully close, but always managed to drop the ball when success seemed all but inevitable. While I still haven't flashed an 8b, I did flash this 8b+ instead... Thanks @alexandermegos and @dave_graham_ for the cheerleading and beta. And of course @nalle_hukkataival for putting this amazing line up!"

Kalymnos paradise escapes from the earthquake
Aris T, the topo producer, confirms that the earth quake that had its epicentrum some 5 km from Kalymnos and badly hit Kos had a very mild impact on Kalymnos. "We have very often small quakes at Kaly. Without any problem though as this time. Just well shaken not stirred! I have some info for 1-2 falling stones at Pescatore left and at Afternoon. Maybe it is just loose rock that already exists high above the routes and sometimes with heavy rain or now with earthquake." Aris also says that there are some 200 climbers on the island and that they have been climbing on Secret Garden and Odyssey in 27 degrees and a nice breeze lately.

As in the last World Cup, the route setters had difficulties separating the finalists. All three females on the podium got to 39+ and the following two 39. Among the males, the qualification results had to separate the first two and #4 to 6 also got the identical final scoring. 1. K Korenaga JPN - A Verhoeven BEL 2. Y Hada JPN - J Garnbret SLO 3. S McColl CAN - J Chanourdie FRA

Ogata wins World Games Bouldering finals
Excellent route setting and commentating in the World Games Bouldering. The only thing that was missing was a clock as well as the live-streaming changed to swimming when there were two climbers left. Yoshiyuki Ogata (19), currently #8 in the WC, had secured the victory already after he had done all the three first boulders. Surprisingly Jan Hojer, who has successfully been focusing on Lead during the summer, got the silver after having missed qualifying for the last ten Boulders WCs. 1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 4t9 4b6 (c) Eddie Fowke 2. Jan Hojer GER 3t6 3b4 3. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 2t3 4b8 4. Mickael Mawem FRA 2t4 4b7 5. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1t4 4b5 Updated results 22:30-23:00 Women's Bouldering Final (DELAYED) 23:30-24:00 Women's Bouldering Final - continued (DELAYED) Saturday 22nd July: 22:30-23:00 Speed Finals (DELAYED) 23:30-24:00 Speed Finals - continued (DELAYED) Monday 24th July: 01:00-03:00 Lead Finals (DELAYED)

Stasa Gejo win World Games
Stasa Gejo (19), #8 in the Boulder WC 2017, was last into the final but she had secured the victory before her opponents had tried the last boulder. As for the male, Japan had two finalists and it seems they are well ahead of the other countries as of 2017. Shauna Coxsey and Janja Garnbret did not participate. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing 1. Stasa Gejo SRB 4t10 4b8 2. Miho Nonaka JPN 3t10 3b8 3. Fanny Gibert FRA 2t2 2b2 4. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3 2b3 5. Monika Retchy GER 1t6 2b7 6. Margo Hayes USA 0t 2b11 Complete results

Alex Honnold also a master of personal grades
Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world and he is also the top climber that uses most personal grades, helping the topo producers and the community to get unanimous grades. Alex Honnold just might be the runner up in the personal grade recording. During the last three weeks he has done 17 routes 7c+ to 8b+ (8c), including suggesting 7c+ for his onsight of Hellion in Ten Sleep which everyone says is 8a+. (c) Jimmy Chin In total, Alex has recorded 755 climbs on his scorecard and for more than hundred, personal grades or soft comments have been made. One reason for this could be that he is doing many trad routes and also use these routes as bench marks. In the trad ranking game, Honnold has been #1 for many years.

Andrea Cartas proposes 8c/8c+ FA in Rodellar
Andrea Cartas publishes in her blog the FA of Der Fan Tutte 8c/8c+, a link up from Der des Ders 7c+ to Cossi Fan Tutte second pitch. She was very close to climb the original route but the first pitch tufa was completly soaked. (C) Carlos Padilla "Now I will return to climb Cossi, because I did Fan Tutte. We'll call this new link up "Der Fan Tutte" and I propose something easier than the original, because I would like to be honest with myself and I want "Cossi" as my very first 8c+"

Loopo Lite 85 gram harness
Edelrid's Loopo Lite at 85 grams is probably the lightest harness on the market. Actually, to get it out of the super small bad that fits into your hand and put it on feels like a joke. Before I was allowed to test it my wife told me that I had to send Edelrid a mail confirming that it besides ski-touring also is allowed to take falls on. After I got the, Sure, like any other harness it is certified according to the EN 12277, C. we tested it and surely it is not comfortable taking a full but it does the job. If I would have been a World Cup sponsored Edelrid climber I would surely gone for it getting some 250 grams advantage towards all my competitors.