NEWS

8C FA by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni has done his fourth 8C through the FA of Hazel grace in Gottardo and the 20 year old is #7 in the ranking game. Next project is to do the logical sit start to it. "It took me around 6 days to do the first crux move, but luckily I did it only once since I knew exactly what to do on the second part. This summer was the first time I trained in a serious way (with Luca DiBiase) and I visibly see the improvement."

Given that FA Paul Robinson originally thought that Lucid Dreaming was an 8C+ and that Alex Megos calls it his hardest, it might be a contender to be upgraded, as Toru Nakajima used three years and 16 sessions. "I agree with you and Nalle Hikkataival's concept. So I can say "it may be 8C+". If it was given 8C+, I would not say it is 8C. I think grade should be determined under majority rule, so I want know what Paul and Daniel Woods think about it. Anyway I cannot say for certain "it is 8C+"." Toru who previously has done four 8C's, finishes off by saying, "Now I'm satisfied with my bouldering career, and would like to do trad-climbing or any other things."

During the Psicocomp DWS in Salt Lake City, Barbara Zangerl took a a bad fall while jumping from the 17 meter wall. Although she got a stiff neck and some pain in my upper spine and later a strange feeling in her leg, she continued the DWS comp all the way to the semifinal. - I pushed myself too hard away from the top during my first jump from the top of the wall. At the very end, just before I hit the water, I had a really bad body position. Under the water I knocked my head in between my knees and my whole spine got forward overstretched. This is the reason for 3 protrusions TH5-7 and my old back injury got inflamed again. I can start with easy climbing soon! But I have to completely rest until I have no more dragging pain in my leg. I think 2 weeks and then I will start again. What could be learnt from this? Always try to straighten out your legs and arms with maximum body tension as you hit the water? Yes that's true all about body tension. Only at the very last second try to be straight with your whole body and don't hold your nose. If you try to be straight too early then it is easier to fall in a side, front or back way and lost the balance. Try to stay open and keep the balance with your arms first and short before you hit the water. Head down, arms on your body and stay stiff and straight with your whole body.

Biographie 8c+ by Laura Rogora (16) after just four days!
Laura Rogora, who was #6 in both the European Championship and Villars WC, reports on Instagram that she has done the 8c+ part of the legendary Biographie in Cรฉรผse. In fact, she skipped the Briancon WC as she was a bit tired from all the comps and wanted to climb on rock. Video of when the 151 m tall first did the bouldery start, which is due to a broken hold much harder in comparison to when Chris Sharma did the FA of Realization which is her goal. - The start was the hardest for me. It took me three days to do the boulder. I did all the moves of the second 9a+ part. I tried it for 4 days doing 2-3 tries per day. Previously the 16 year old has done two 9a's and three 8c+'s, out of one has been suggested to be upgraded to 9a by the first repeater. In other words, the young Italian who mainly trains in a bouldering gym in Rome is currently one of the best female climbers in the world.

Garnbret win her third straight WC
Janja Garnbret took another great victory in Briancon ahead of Anak Verhoeven and Jain Kim. Out of the 14 World Cups and Championships she has done, the 17 year old has made the podium all but once. Add to that, she is #2 in the Boulder World Cup after having won two events. It should also be noted that it was almost a perfect separation during the final. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

1. DESGRANGES Romain 255 - GARNBRET Janja 300 2. BOMBARDI Marcello 163 - VERHOEVEN Anak 210 3. KORENAGA Keiichiro148 - KIM Jain 200 4. SKOFIC Domen 142 - PILZ Jessica 153 5. GHISOLFI Stefano 139 - MAROVIC Mina 146 Complete results

9a again by Roberto Podio (36)
Roberto Podio has done Tomorrowland L2 in Collepardo suggesting an upgrade to 9a. Laura Rogora made the FA last autumn when she was just 15 years old. "In February, I did Grandi Gesti, my first 9a, and yesterday I finally did Tomorrowland. I cannot express an opinion with certainty about the grade of these two routes because I donโ€™t have experience at this level, but I can make a comparison and say without doubts that I found the second one far more difficult." Interestingly, the 36 year old set a 8c personal best last year and then he skipped one grade and has done potentially two 9a's in 2017. The simple explanation could be that he previously had done his routes within some 25 tries but for his 9a's, he used 58 respectively 77 tries.

Three current best females have topped the first three routes in Briancon meaning that who climbs faster will decide who wins if they are tied also in the final. Among the males, only one hold separated the first eleven best meaning count back decided who made it to the final. It was obvious that the male route was way too easy in the start. Complete results The Live-streaming starts 20:00.

If any of Anak Verhoeven, Janja Garnbret or Jain Kim get the same final scoring, they will be tied by who climbed the fastest. However, for the spectators as well as for the commentators it is very hard to know, "who is in the lead" after they have climbed half the routes. In practice, if there is a top before Garnbret starts, it will be hard to compare her time up on the route and some excitement will be lost. Further more, if nobody tops but Garnbret came to the same hold, it might take some time before the spectators and the commentators will understand who won. The best solution for giving instant results as well as increasing excitement would be to add some split-times that would be visible. Once Garnbret gets to hold #10, 20, 30 and 40 etc, a ranking can be showed meaning that if they time on hold 42+, the split time on hold 40 could decide who won.