Bernd Zangerl, one of the pioneers of Magic Wood and a leading boulderer some 15 years ago, took a very bad fall in 2015. (c) Ray Demski "I landed hard on my back on my crash pad, followed by a somersault into the forest’s stony ground. Conscious again, I was sitting on my knees looking up at the project five meters above me. There was only little pain in my neck, which I didn’t give much attention to, and I went back home. The next day I went to a spa, relaxing. I didn’t think the fall was anything serious, until a few days later when the pain became unmistakably severe. After a MRI, the doctors explained to me that I was very lucky, but I’d badly injured the 5th and 6th vertebra in my neck. When I woke up a few days later, I couldn’t feel my thumb and index finger anymore. A funky feeling. A few hours later my muscles on my back (terres major and serratus anterior) started vibrating. That was the moment when the brain stopped sending impulses to the muscles. The atrophy started slowly. I didn’t know what was going on. I felt the results eight weeks later back in the gym. I wanted to hold on some jugs, but I couldn’t do it anymore. My arm straightened without any resistance. I totally lost the two most important muscles in climbing, the terres major and serratus anterior! After a 1,5 year of physical training indoor and specific mental work every day, I was super happy to be outside, to climb on the rock again. Into the Sun (8c+) starts with a six move 8A+ traverse into Fred Nicole's old top rope boulder Murgtal Tag & Nacht 8A+ (where gear is placed) and tops out with a 7b link. After this injury, it is not the grade which is important to me. It never really was. The way back to bouldering, to climbing, to what I love can not be measured with numbers. Words can't tell how happy I am to be back on the rock. I still have some more projects which I want to climb in future. I am still not as strong as before my accident but I am getting there:-)

There are 175 males scheduled to compete in the Boulder WC on Friday in Munich. One reason for this is that up to the semi, the event also counts as the European Championship which means bigger interest from Europe. The isolation closes 06:30 and at 07:00, Jongwon Chon and Alexey Rubtsov start competing followed by the lower ranked. In practice this means that the guys competing for the overall title need to wake up at the latest 04:30 in order to be able to perform maximum power and dynos in full swing at seven o'clock. The last male out will start around 14:30 after having spent eight hours in isolation. At the same time both the temperature and the friction will be worse after 85 guys have put chalk on the holds in the two groups.

Jakob Schubert, who was #3 in the European Lead Championship at the end of June just one week after being #5 in Boulder Cup, later took his first ever WC break and instead went to Rocklands. During 17 days he did over 55 boulders 8A and harder. According to his ticklist we can see that he flashed two 8B's Mooiste Meisie and Madiba which he gave a personal grade of 8A+, five 8A+'s and eleven 8A's. In short, this just might be a new record when it comes to a 2.5 week climbing trip. The next week he will compete in the Boulder WC in Munich. (c) Ingo Filzwieser

James Squire has done his first 8B+, The Never Ending Story, in Magic Wood. "Did not expect this today! Massive mental battle. 5th session this trip plus a few sessions over the last two years. Such a classic line, can't believe it!"

The Never Ending Story 8B+ from Beastly Squirrel on Vimeo.

Maria Davies Sandbu, who previously has done eleven 8A's, has sent Nightrider Høyre in Lofoten, giving it a personal grade 8A grade. "Very cool climb on good crimps! The long move in the end was definitely the crux for me. Even though the guidebook says 8A+ I dont think I can claim this to be my first of the grade."

Heloise Doumont BEL - Stefano Carnati ITA Sandra Lettner AUT - Andoni Esparta Frade ESP Camille Pouget FRA - Alberto Gines ESP Complete results It's interesting that Spain, who has had poor youth competitions results for many years, was the best nation. In female Youth A, Austria and Slovenia shared the first six positions followed by Laura Rogora from Italy, who was #6 in the Villars World Cup last month. The last few years, Austria has dominated but it seems that some others countries have had great progress.

Friction Labs has listed the Top-10 Climbing Apps including commenting Pros and Cons and the first mentioned is Vertical-Life "Vertical Life is the most well-designed app on this list. It’s pleasing to the eye, features inviting color schemes and photos, and is easy to navigate. Its guide topos (i.e. visual representations of the routes on a wall) are beautifully crafted and easy to follow."

I have used the new Sendai Vent from Boreal when I have been setting up easy bolted routes this summer and they are perfect. Instead of using climbing shoes that get painful after an hour or so, I use this in between climbing and trekking shoe. The Sendai Vent is a regular lightweight comfortable approach shoe that you in fact also could use during easy climbing warm ups. For some reason, the shoe industry has not fulfilled this in between segment for the new generation of climbers who do not want to invest in climbing shoes doing some scrambling or climbs graded 3 and 4. More info

Iva Vejmolova has done her first 8c, Nordic Flower in Flatanger which actually was set up as an 9a. (c) Pavel Blazek Adam Ondra comments on Instagram,"I cannot be happier to lose the bet. We made a bet who is going the climb the "c" first (8c for her, 9c for me). My sweetheart Iva found Nordic Flower and ticked her first 8c! The most dramatic and emotional belay I have ever had. So proud of her, especially doing it 2nd go of the day in total shit conditions. Let's pick more "c's" in September."

Chuck Odette continues to progress being 61-years-old doing the FA of Bulletproof Monk in Logan Canyon which was his tenth 8b+. "Linked Shaolin into the Monk finish. Soooooo good... sooooo pumped! Still pumped a day later :)" Interview follow up to come. (c) Heidi Baxter