Jakob Schubert won even he was timed out in Arco but kept climbing a couple of moves. He thought he had not climbed so well and was just happy to have made it to the finals and that some guys should climb way above him. The second last out was Adam Ondra, who found a no-hands rest, and had two minutes left and was actually shaking out in an undercling on a big volume. Suddenly he could not hold the volume at all and fell going to the next hold. Last out was Alex Megos, who did fall early in a sideway dyno and the show finished in an anti-climax like for the female. Jain Kim, who won the overall World Cup 2013 - 2015, took her first victory in almost two years. As a matter of a fact, she was timed out and looked liked she could have continued towards the top saving the skin of the route setters. As in the semifinal, most athletes actually fell within two moves not creating the great finish of the competition. In the great IFSC live-streaming, Adam said that he had never competed in such bad conditions, complaining about the humidity. He explained that the reason why he could not hold the undercling was because he was sweating so much on his forearm that he finally could not hold it. 1. Jakob Schubert AUT 39 2. Adam Ondra CZE 38+ 3. Max Rudigier AUT 38+ 4. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 34+ 5. Keiichoro Korenaga JPN 33+ 1. Jain Kim KOR 39 2. Ann-Sophie Koller SUI 38 3. Janja Garnbret SLO 32+ 4. Julia Chanourdie FRA 32+ 5. Ashima Shiraishi USA 32+ Complete results

1. Romain Desgranges 255 - Janja Garnbret 300 2. Marcello Bombardi 184 - Jain Kim 245 3. Keiichiro Korenaga 165 - Anak Verhoeven 210 4. Domen Skofic 142 - Ann-Sophie Koller 154 5. Stefano Ghisolfi 139 - Jessica Pilz 153 6. Sean McColl 127 - Mina Markovic 146 Although Janja, Romain and Jain have delivered good results in all four events, in the history of Lead climbing we have not seen such a mix of results of the top athletes as in 2017. (C)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing Complete results

Bruno García B has done his first 9a, Lujuria in Jilotepec and here is a short video trailer. Together with his brother Richie. Rebeca Zuniga is following them doing a documentary - Climbing Mexico. "Bruno began his history with climbing when a tragic incident happened to his family. His older brother, who was an active climber, died in an accident. His family got the support of the amazing climbing community and Bruno, along with his brother Ricardo, and his twin sister Claudia began to explore their brother's love for climbing. Soon they were in love with it themselves."

Arco Lead World Cup starts tomorrow at 9:00 with qualifications. Live-streaming begins Saturday with semifinal 11:00-13:30 and finals 17:00. Updated results Alex Megos was #7 in the Munich World Cup after just one week of indoor bouldering which was quite a shock as he, after having qualified as #17 in the semifinal, reported "Whaaat??!! Almost can't believe what just happened today!" The big news is that he is going to compete in the Arco Lead WC and with another shocking performance he could start thinking about the Olympics. The other interesting news for Arco is that Adam Ondra, Jan Hojer and Ashima Shiraishi will be there. The 16 year old will also compete in Speed in preparation for the Olympics.

Bulgaria got three golds was the best nation during Arco Rock Master under 14. Italy got two golds, not counting the many shared golds, and was the second best country. Surprisingly, Austria who normally dominates youngster events, was not so successful and actually did not have many competing. Most competitors and also good results came from countries in Eastern Europe. Complete results

Mathieu Bouyoud has, after two weekends of work including some ten tries, done his 15th 9a, La Prophétie des Grenouilles in Fournel. "It's a connection between the 8c "Une Arquée pour un Criquet" and the 8b "La Croix de Toulouse". A long route in a magic place where Yann Ghesquier did the FA." His next plan is to do another 9a in La Balme, where he already has done seven 9a's and one 9a+ FA. In the ranking game, the Frenchman is #5.

Andy Raether has done his second 9a FA, Manphibian in Mt Charleston which is an extension of the unrepeated Spyfiction 8c+ from 2012. That route took some 7 months only working on that and now he added four months for the 9a extension. (c) Lacey Jones "Manphibian follows this gorgeous line out a super steep face and into a blank looking steep arete and is capped off by a gruesome slab finish. The most difficult climbing is the beginning and the boulder problem up the arete right after Spyfiction. This route also has the most "keep you honest" finish of pretty much any route I have ever done, because after all the most difficult climbing is over, you still need do execute a 12+ slab section that if you aren't absolutely perfect then you're done." In total, Andy with no shoe or rope sponsor, has put up some 300 routes and 600 boulders. Interesting is that the hardest grades he has repeated are 8c and the latest was five years ago. "Honestly I climb way harder on my own routes. For me I really love all the hard work of bolting, cleaning, and sequencing a new line. Others' work is usually less intriguing to me. Plus I have zero money for climbing trips. Recently I've started bolting at a few completely new crags that previously had no routes."

If Combined climbing had mad it to the Olympics 15 years ago, we would have had a mega star with some gold medals hanging around his neck. We are talking winning different disciplines the same day? Now he works anonymously as an IFSC route setter. An interesting interview is coming up also explaining how to train for Tokyo 2020. The background for the interview is that his kid has just set some new records. Who is it?

Lair Thibault has done his third 9a FA, La minute de rési, 9a in Lourdes. In the 8a ranking game, the French man is #14. "This is a 3-route connection, 40 movements of pure endurance. It took me about 15 sessions. Evening after work sessions were necessary to do the route. Even if it is not a king line, still very happy to do this big chunk of endurance!"