Filip Schenk from Italy won first the qualification and the semi. In the final he made four straight flashes winning the male category in a superior style. The very last move he did statically meanwhile all the others had to go very dynamically. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Filip Schenk ITA - 4t4 4b4 2. Keita Dohi JPN - 4t11 4b6 3. Mizuki Tajima JPN - 3t5 4b6 1. Ashima Shiraishi USA - 4t7 4b7 2. Luiza Eleleva RUS - 3t5 3b4 3. Brooke Raboutou USA 3t9 4b10 Complete results Ashima Shiraishi was equally superior also first winning the qualification and semifinal rounds. Overall the route setting was great and although rain it was packed. A perfect start of the Youth World Championship Finals in Innsbruck. Read more at the YWCH website report

Austria Climbing has presented an article for the Youth A in preparation for the final tonight that will be livestreamed at 20:00 (GMT +2) From the complete results, we can see that Filip Schenk and Ashima Shiraishi won the semifinal. Laura Rogora, pictured by Eddie Fowke did also make it. The Combined Top-13 from the Youth A, will qualify for the Youth Olympics in Argentina next year and most likely, some of these youngsters will also compete in Tokyo 2020.

From the complete results for the juniors we can see that it was perfect route setting today. As for the senior males, Japan dominates with three guys Top-6. Kai Harada is the first in Innsbruck who has flashed all four boulders. Among the females, three from USA are in the Top-10. Read more about the qualifications at the YWCH website report

Updated results for Youth B. Sep 1: 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Youth A (M+F) Livestream-Link Sep 2: 10:00 - 12:00 Boulder Semi, Juniors (M+F) Livestream-Link 14:30 - 16:45 Boulder Semi, Youth B (M+F) Livestream-Link 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Juniors(M+F) Livestream-Link You can follow the results live through a newly developed App by Tim Hatch. Apple and Google. More info on Austria Climbing and their Facebook. The picture from the Opening ceremony with all the 50 nations gathered was taken by Heiko Wilhelm.

After the way too hard route setting for Youth A yesterday, the problems for the Youth B were made a bit easier which turned out almost perfect for the girls. In one group, seven topped all four problems and only seven out of 43 did not make a single top. In the other group the #6 made two tops and 16 did not do any boulder but all but one did score zones. Complete results For the boys, the boulders were a bit too hard. In one group the #2 did just two tops, 30 out of 45 did not make any top and seven scored zero bonuses. In the second group, the results were much better spread and only ten did not score any top. More great pics by Eddie Fowke Something interesting is that among the males two Japanese boys won their respectively group and for the girls, the two best Japanes were runner up in their respectively group.

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Jan hojer won the World Cup in 2014 and was #2 in 2015 when he also was the European Champion. Since then he has just made finals once in 12 WC's, before winning in Munich. It is interesting that after his last three Boulder WC's in June, averaging as #23, he has not done any structured bouldering training, instead he has mainly been competing in Speed and Lead where his best results were #4 and #11. Talking to Jan explaining his recent success and training he says, it is all about motivation and having fun while training and competing. (c) Marco Kost - Training and competing is about giving 100 %. The past weeks living in Innsbruck inbetween comps, I have been psyched for every session I did because of the great training partners and facility! The last two months my lead motivation kept me away from bouldering or serious training and for me there is no reason to do a hang board session if I don't feel like it. Bouldering is such a mental game that changing focus and having other goals in mind helped me across all disciplines. I even tried the speed route a bit and it has been great fun. Of course the Olympics are a goal of mine but we'll see how the next seasons go. Summary video from Munich

The Youth World Championship in Innsbruck started today with Boulder for Youth A. In the male second group, Keita Dohi was the only one to do two boulders and 16 boys scored zero bonuses. In the first group it was a bit better and the twelve first did at least one boulder. Complete results Among the girls, the boulders were also too hard as Ashima Shiraishi and Sandra Lettner were the only ones with three tops. Anyhow, more than half just got a maximum of one top and 17 scored 0 bonus. What is truly remarkable is that this is the third Championship in a row where the boulders have been too hard for the youngsters. (c) Heiko Wilhelm In fact many coaches and youngsters were upset and actually some had problems to do the first move from the starting position. In many cases, guys who made it to the semifinal, did do many less moves and bonuses in comparison to lower ranked. 8a has previously suggested having two or even three bonuses in order to make comps more fair and fun. 8a has also suggested that the route setters should have guidance saying that at least half of the guys qualifying to the semifinal should do four boulders.

Tomasz Oleksy has won five Speed World Cups and two Boulder World Cups. In 2003, he won the Speed and the Boulder World Cup on the same day in Yekaterinburg and got a bronze and silver in the World Championship in Chamonix. During the same year, he won the WC overall in Speed and was #5 in Boulder. The following year the Pole tried Lead once and was #14. In other words, Tomasz Oleksy is the best Combined climber in history and shows that it is possible to perform in all three disciplines. If climbing would have been Olympic 15 years ago, he might have been the mega star with some golds medals around his neck! "Normally I trained Speed after one day of break when I was fresh. The rest of my training I focused on Bouldering training and Lead climbing, two days training and one day rest. In one period I tried to train two times a day but it was too much for me. Outside I was focused for climbing mostly onsight. I was able to climb 8b onsight. In bouldering I was able climb 7C+ onsight and 8B problems quite fast. I never focused on really hard stuff and I did just like two trips per year." (But he has done the FA of Tysiac kotletow 9a, in 2000.) Piotr Kotlarski tells us the extreme story from Malatal when Tomasz recommended his warm up boulder. ""Guys, a great boulder, a mix of coordination and power, I really like it". He'd done it like three times for fun, saying it is around 7C. Then the locals arrived and said he'd done Petting with an Alligator 8A+. Today Tomasz is working as an IFSC route setter and he did the Munich WC and now he is in Innsbruck for the Youth World Championship. "Fortunately this job offers me time for climbing so I am still more less in the game, 8a onsight :))). When I have time we try with my family to go climbing outside as much as possible. I think this is very important for Maja! Maybe my daughter will have chance to finish this Olympic story?" Follow up story with Maja, who did his first 8a this summer, Petit Tom in Céüse, at 9-years-old, soon to come.