NEWS

Adam Ondra interview
5 September 2017

Adam Ondra interview

Planet Mountain has got a full length interview with Adam Ondra. "For me it is definitely the most important achievement in my climbing career. Itโ€™s what I value the most, the route Iโ€™ve put the most effort in, where Iโ€™ve had to dig the deepest. Now that itโ€™s finally come through itโ€™s just incredible. An experience which is very rare and intense." So Adam (24), who has been appointed the 8a Climber of the year continuously since he was 17, values this higher than his other extreme achievements in all climbing disciplines , like; (c) Pavel Blazek 1. The Dawn Wall = Marathon 8 days climbing 2. Double World Champion in 2016 = Plastic power and power endurance 3. Change 9b+ in 2010 = Mental frustration 4. 9a onsight etc etc = Tactical skill 5. 8B+ flash Jade = Power

Ondra thinks 9c+ is possible
The Guardian has made a long nice interview (with great pics from (c) Pavel Blazek) where Adam among other things say; "When I did this climb I did not feel it was at my absolute limit. I can imagine climbing a harder route. I think I can climb more at this grade one day and potentially harder.โ€ Emontana has also done a full length camera including the perspective from Adam's girlfriend, Iva Vejmolovรก, who did belay him during the 20 minutes. "In this moment I personally started to cry. (laughing) I knew that if he didnโ€™t screw up, then he was going to send it. For me, It was so difficult, to wait and see whatโ€™s going to happen next."

The Youth A Speed World Champions 2017 are Aleksandra Kalucka Polen and Sergey Rukin Russia. In total, Russia got one of each medal and also a #3 result. Complete results and Video Highlights Interesting to see the great progress since the Youth World Championships 2016. In order to qualify to Top-16 you had to do 11.96 respectively 8.53. This year 10.66 respectively 7.82 were needed. The best Combined female result after two disciplines is Luiza Emeleva from Russia #2 in Boulder and #13 in Speed. Among the boys Philip Shenk from Russia won the Boulder and was #43 in Speed and Keita Dohi from Japan #2 in Boulder and #26 in Speed. The Top-20 qualifies for the last Combined event on Sunday where Top-13 qualifies to Youth Olympics in Argentina 2017.

Carlos Granja from Ecuador and Daria Kan from Russia, who won after a false start, are the new Junior Speed World Champions. Beside the false start, there were a total of two falls and one big error during the semifinal making it not so exciting to watch. Complete results What about adding like two seconds or so for a false start, like in Paralell slalom after a fall, in order to avoid anti-klimax? Claire Buhrfeind, who won the Boulder event was #4, meaning that sheis the best Combined climber overall after two disciplines. In practice, this also make her a contender for a medal in Tokyo 2020. Her best time was 9.17 meaning she could make finals also in Speed World Cups and she is well ahead of other top Combined climbers. Stefani Jacopo from Italy and Polina Kulagina from Russia won among the Youth B, where all Top-4 girls were from Russia. In total, Russia got eight of the twelve awarded medals today.

Buhrfeind and Ogata Junior World Champions
Heavy rain in both the semifinal and the final for the juniors but even so the organizers managed to put on a great show in front of two big crowds. In the end, USA and Japan won double victories. 1. Claire Buhrfeind USA - 2t3 4b8 2. Maya Madere USA -2t9 4b16 3. Johanna Holfeld GER - 1t1 2b2 1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN - 3t7 4b6 2. Meichi Narasaki JPN - 3t9 4b5 3. Jan-Luca Posch AUT - 2t2 4b4 Complete results More pictures and a report can be found at Austria Climbing USA and Japan have dominated the Youth World Champions so far. In Youth A, there were also two girls from USA on the podium and two boys from Japan. Among the Top-4 in the Youth B semifinals, there were six from Japan!

Three 9a's during a rainy week for Alex Megos
Alex Megos, who two weeks ago was #7 in the Munich Boulder WC and who won the semifinal one week later in the Arco Lead WC, has delivered again. On Facebook he reports, "WOW! What a week! Today was the last day of my @redbullswitzerland trip! I climbed 6 days straight, visited 3 totally different areas and climbed "Coup de grรขce" 9a my 3rd 9a this week! Couldn't have wished for any better last day of this trip!" Checking his page, you understand that is has been raining most of the time and that the other 9a's he did were Im Reich des Shogun and Speed Integral. Alex seems to have stepped up another level this year and now we can hope that he will try to make it to Tokyo 2020.

Total domination by Japan in Youth B
1. Futaba Ito JPN - Rei Kawamata JPN 2. Natsuki Tanii JPN - Semen Ovchinnikov RUS 3. Saki Kikuchi JPN - Ryoei Nukui Complete results Photos and a report can be found at the Austria Climbing website (Pic by M. Liebhaber)

Sep 2: 10:00 - 12:00 Boulder Semi, Juniors (M+F) Livestream-Link 14:30 - 16:45 Boulder Semi, Youth B (M+F) Livestream-Link 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Juniors(M+F) Livestream-Link