1. Laura Stöckler AUI 3 * 1 * 1 = 3 2. Iuliia Pantaleva RUS 1 * 2 * 5 = 10 3. Margo Hayes USA 5 * 3 * 3 = 45 The big sensation in female juniors was Claire Buhrfeid who won in both the Lead and Boulder event as well as being #4 in Speed, but just finished #5 in the Combined. The American did four runs below 9.50 in the Speed event and faced Aika Tajima, who normally does around 16 seconds in the Combined event. She was superior until she fell and then she could not recover mentally it seemed. Laura Stöckler on the other hand pleased her home crowd by performing better in all three disciplines in the Combined final. More pics at Austria Climbing.

1. Meichi Narasaki JPN 1 * 1 * 4 = 4 2. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN 2 * 2 * 1 = 4 3. Kai Lightner USA 3 * 3 * 3 = 9 Complete results Japan took another double victory followed by a bronze for USA in Junior male Combined. As all three guys, in fact, are very good Speed climbers performing in between 8.00 to 8.74 seconds, chances are high that some of them will also compete in Tokyo 2020. A highlight of the competition was when Ogata, in his normal yo-yo style, finished one boulder on his 11th attempt. Measuring how many attempts, i.e. training, he puts in when he does not top, as well as his senior WC results, he should already now be pointed out as a contender for a medal in Tokyo.

Another great semifinal round where the two winners in the Youth A Boulder climbed the highest: Ashima Shiraishi and Filip Schenk. Complete results Interesting is that Japan who has dominated previously, did just get one through to the final. The live streaming continues tonight with the finals. 19:00-20:00 Lead Finals Youth A 20:30-21:30 Lead Finals Juniors

Adam Ondra has on his Instagram explained why he named his 9c, Silence. (c) Bernando Gimenez

There was just one Japanese male in Youth A, Shuta Tanaka, and he secured the fifth gold for Japan. Once he had done a spectacular double dyno, almost at the top, he faced the audience and showed them his fighting face before resting and continuing several moves. Among the girls, USA had two athletes participating taking gold and silver, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou. Complete results 1. Shuta Tanaka JPN - Ashima Shiraishi USA 2. Nathan Martin FRA - Brooke Raboutou USA 3. Mikel Linacisoro ESP - Nolwenn Arc FRA

Niccolo Ceria and Martin Mobråten have both repeated Bernd Zangerl's Shantaram, 8C in Osen, Norway. (c) Stefan Kuerzi Ceria, who has done 8C before, just used three days for his send and Mobråten some ten days. He has previously done a few 8B+ and thinks Shantarm should be graded likewise.

1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN - Claire Buhrfeind USA 2. Meichi Narasaki JPN - Aika Tajima JPN 3. Kai Lightner USA - Heloise Doumont BEL 4. Taito Nakagami JPN - Victoria Perkins USA Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke The result says it all. The Youth World Championship is just about to become a Japan and USA battle in Lead and Bouldering. Japan has gotten six golds and USA five. Talking about number of medals, Japan has been awarded by 17 and USA 9. Europe, who always has dominated the Youth World Championships, has just one gold and a total of ten medals. In the Youth World Champion in 2015 in Arco, Japan got six medals in total out of which one gold. Europe got eight golds and a total of 24 medals. The tables have completely turned in just two years. It should also be mentioned that while the best nations in Europe often have participated with six guys in each category, Japan has just participated with 2 - 4 athletes in each category.