Ett inlägg delat av Alex Puccio (@alex_puccio89) Sep 25, 2017 kl. 3:52 PDT

The strong Beto Rocasolano has done a few FA's in Peixcave, an amazing new granite cave in Madrid described by him as the 'spanish Wheel of Life". The problems (that look awesome in the video) are Anubis 8B, El Abismo de Noa 8B+ and Trinity 8C. "We named it Peixcave cause it was found by Alfonso Peso 'Peich' (devoloper of many bouldering crags in Spain) 3 years ago. The lines are pure endurance and all of them can be divided in 3 sections with a good ish rests in between as they have more than 50 moves. It was hard to grade it cause the climbing seems more like route climbing. Definitely it will be the Wheel of Life from Madrid."

Alex Puccio continues to deliver in Magic Wood by doing Pura Vida 8A+ and One Summer in Paradise 8B. "Felt as hard for me as Riverbed. Really nice crimps... except I REALLY dislike the end of this boulder! Fell off the last moves once today and then did it second attempt of the day. Second day trying it." (c) Joel Zerr During the last month, the 28 year old has won both Adidas Rock Star and Arco Rock Master as well as having done four boulders in between 8A+ and 8B+!

Here are the 8a current prediction for the Tokyo 2020. 1. Adam Ondra - Janja Garnbret 2. Jan Hojer - Claire Buhrfeind 3. Yushiyuki Ogata - Ashima Shiraishi 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Margo Hayes 5. Jakob Schubert - Elena Kravsoskaia 6. Tomoa Narasaki - Jain Kim

Jenya Kazbekova, Youth World Champion in 2010 who was #8 in Chamonix (Lead) and #13 in Munich (Bouldering) this year, has done her first 8c+ Güllich in Crimea. (c) Ilia Karpenko "First time I tried it was ten days ago. This route was really hard for me, but it was my style of climbing. First part is vertical wall with very small crimps and after is overhang with few powerful moves. I think, I did it in 10 attempts. In October I'm going to China on two World cups and after also in Slovenia. I hope, that I will have a chance to go on rocks after the season of comps. I would also like to try the Olympic format." Her father Serik has won World Cups both in Lead and Bouldering and her mother Nataliya Perlova, has a silver and a bronze in Bouldering World Championships. Jenya did her first 8b+ when she was 13 years old so all together the Ukraine family is among the most successful climbing families in the world.

Cracking Cobra from Eddie Bauer on Vimeo.

Jan Hojer did not make it to the semi in Lead but with 7.38 in Speed, he was #12 and will compete in the final. This is the fastest time a Lead or Boulder specialist have done. Sean McColl who has competed in Speed for many years is normally doing it on 8.50 seconds. Jan's personal best before this comp was 8.40. Ashima Shiraishi was the second big name who tried it out and she was #19 out of 24 with 12.59. Here is the Speed Final where Jan climbs 17:45 and his Speed should put some pressure on other Lead and Boulder specialists. "I maybe climbed on the route 12-15 days. Usually about 4-6 tries each. I tried to copy Danyil's (Boldyrev, the 190 cm world record holder) beta and trained with him one day a couple of weeks ago. He analyzed my mistakes and although I had not much time to work on anything yet, I feel like I know a couple things about speed climbing now.I will start real speed training this winter I guess. In China i might compete but probably won't train speed again before that and focus more on lead training."

Great route setting and livestreaming from the World Cup in Edinburgh but we badly need the official clock and so do the spectators. In practice all the top female struggled with the new six minute rule and not even the commentators did know who won as Janja Garnbret was timed out but continued some moves. Stefano Gisolfi and Jakob Schubert had topped out the first three routes and with identical result also in the final, the faster climber, Ghisolfi, was ranked higher. (C) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing At the same time the local commentator, did often talk about how long time did remain for the athletes actually helping some more then the other. IFSC need to set some rules, how much time info the commentator should give the athletes. Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret won their third and fourth event in 2017 and they have almost already secured the overall title as long as they make it to the final in two out of the three last events. 1. Romain Desgranges FRA 47 : Janja Garnbret SLO 42 2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 42+ : Jessica Piltz AUT 42 3. Jakob Schubert AUT 42+ : Jain Kim KOR 41+ Complete results

1. Romain Desgranges 389 - Janja Garnbret 465 2. Stefano Ghisolfi 235 - Jim Kain 365 3. Keiichiro Koenaga 233 - Anak Verhoeven 304 4. Marcello Bombardi 228 - Jessica Pilz 276 5. Domen Skofic 207 - Julia Chanourdie 242 Complete results

Luis Rodriguez Martin claims his maximum redpoint grade with Mangarbo 9a/+ located in Villanueva del Rosario in the famous Chilam Balam cave in southern Spain. Less than a year ago Luis did his first 9a, and he recently has returned from a month long climbing trip in Ceuse. Luis has been training with Patxi Usobiaga for the past three years and recently we published an article about his training.