NEWS

9a again by Yann Ghesquiers (45)
Fanatic climbing reports that Yann Ghesquiers has done his fifth 9a by the FA of , Crotte de geek in Ailefroide. Interesting is that he actually started to climb at this crag 40 years ago. In 1991, he was #11 in one Lead World Cup. (c) Jan Novak

First 8c+ by Andrea Cartas
Andrea Cartas reports on Facebook that she has done her first 8c+, Cosi Fan Tutte in Rodellar. (c) Javi Pec

Kadic & Gelmanov winner of Free solo masters in Lienz
Katja Kadic and Rustam Gelmanov got Euro 1 000 winning the fourth edition of the Lienz Free Solo competition. This means climbing on an 18-meter-high, mobile climbing wall without rope only secured by an oversized airbag. Imagine having this set up during the Olympics :) Complete results

Sascha Lehmann SUI - Michelle Hulliger SUI Filip Schenk ITA - Vita Lukan SLO Alberto Lopez ESP - Camille Pouget FRA It should be noted that Filip Schenk competing on the same final route as the juniors, scored the same as Sascha. Laura Rogora, who was #6 in the European Championship for seniors, was fourth in the European Youth A Champion, indicating that there are more girls that could compete in the World Cup. Complete results.

Kalymnos Festival 6-8/10 with Woods and Becan
Daniel Woods and Klemen Becan are the two big names for the Kalymnos Festival that starts 6/10 and finishes 8/10. "Climbers can participate in pairs (male, female or mixed) climbing as many routes as possible from 08:00 to 17:00. Each route is graded with certain points depending on the difficulty. The pair that collects most points is the winner of the Rally. The areas set for the Rally are the sectors between North Cape and Poets."

Era Vella 9a (8c+) by Muriel Sarkany (43)
Muriel Sarkany, the most successful Lead WC climber who between 1997 and 2004, won the Lead WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was runner-up, has done Era Vella 9a (8c+) in Margalef. Muriel reports on Facebook, "Thanks Chris Sharma for bolting this amazing 50 meter long King line." Era Vella has 35 ascents the most repeated 9a in the world even if the FA was from 2010. Strangely, Muriel's ascent was the first in 18 months. In her last World Cup in 2010, being 36 years old, she was #6. Muriel did her first 9a in 2013 and last autumn she did an 8c+. The pic is from that celebration.

Pura Vida 8A+ by Mile Heyden
Mile Heyden, who did her first 8B+ six months ago, has done Pura Vida 8A+ in Magic Wood. (c) Matti Staniek "Pura Vida was just the line which was always in my mind. After my 2 month break because of a knee injury I'm pretty happy to be back in the game. I had the honor to do it on the same day Alex Puccio did One Summer in Paradise. She helped me withe the beta and inspired me. So maybe the next plan is One Summer in Paradise. "

First 8C by Sam Weir
27 September 2017

First 8C by Sam Weir

Sam Weir, who had a personal 8A best until 2015, has during a night session done his first 8C, Topaz in RMNP. video "4th ascent. Yes! My first v15! First go tonight:) At first I thought it would go easy for me but after falling on the walk through after sticking the crux 10+ times I believe this warrants the 8c grade for how confident and precise you have to climb on the exit v11 boulder. The first time I set the toe hook I sent. Definitely my hardest to date and psyched for my europe trip and to start that new journey on Hypno!"

Biographie 9a+ by Margo Hayes
Matty Hong reports on Instagram that Margo Hayes has done Biographie 9a+ in Cรฉรผse. Seven months ago Margo became the first female to do a 9a+ by La Rambla and last month she was #3 in the Junior Combined World Championship. (c) Jan Novak Biographie was put up by Chris Sharma in 2001 and with a broken hold in the start, it is considered harder than originally. In total, Margo did the 14th ascent of the 30 meter long route. Here is the 8a interview after she did La Rambla where she among other things said that, "Most of my training is climbing. I do try to run 1-4 miles a few times a week. On top of that, I fit in some strength training and flexibility work where I can. My routine is always changing, but these things stay constant. When I have the opportunity, I jump on the trampoline and swing on the bars! This is my favorite type of cross training." Here are an interesting quote in a recent Cafe Kraft video: I think mentally we limit ourselves much more than physically. If you want push yourself and reach your full potential you have to focus on what's going on upstairs.

Kampfzone is the new multi-pitch by Beat Kammerlander graded, 8b+, 8c, 8a+, 7a, 7c. The 58 year old did bolt it ground up and it is located in Rรคtikon at 2 800 meter. Planet Mountain has all details and an interview with the legend.