A climber in Göteborg Sweden, fell some six times moving rightwards above the last bolt on the lip. Each time the quick draw was dragged over the sharp rock as he landed under the roof. During the seventh fall the textile of the draw snapped and he fell another seven meters but was OK. I have asked the local club to move the bolt downwards so such incidents can be avoided. It might be wise to sometimes check also the textile of your quick draws to see that they are not half broken. This should also be done on fixed quick draws that possibly could snap during the next fall. This summer the textile on a fixed quick draw broke in Stockholm.

Maggie Odette has done the FA of Fight Club 8b in Logan Canyon. (c) Heidi Baxter " It's a new link-up of The Big Brawl (8a+) into the Bulletproof Monk (8b+) finish. It adds a third boulder crux. The bolts for the finish were actually placed by Jeff Pederson when he put up the original line, he never bothered with that section and opted to exit to the left on Sportfest (7c) instead."

Guide Tennie is the updated version of the Five Ten scramling and climbing shoe with Stealth C4 rubber. The leather is also waterproof and they are pretty light. The beveled and stiff toe makes it possibly to use even warming up on easier climbs. Guide Tennie offers a great combination of hikability and climbability. KEY FEATURES Stealth® C4™ rubber outsole Hand-ground beveled climbing toe Suede/synthetic upper Compression-molded EVA midsole Ergonomic last design Extended lacing for greater adjustability Weight: 373g each (Size 9US)

Elena Krasovskaia sat a new personal best in Speed at 8.79 during the European Youth Championship in Perm and finished #3 in Youth A. This is the fastest time by a women also performing at a high level in Lead and Boulder. Earlier this month, The Russian won the Boulder and was #10 in the Lead European Youth Champion. In practice, this makes her one of the best prepared for the Combined Olympic format. The same can also be said about Sam Avezou who set a personal best in Speed with 7.39 and finished #6. In the other two disciplines in the European Championship he was #3 in Lead and #5 in Boulder. The French won the Combined in the Tiyth World Championship and was #11 in a Lead WC this summer.

Gabriele Moroni has done his second 8C by repeating Nico Ceria's Ziqqurat in Gaby. On Instagram he reports, "After day one I got completely hooked and felt the need to go to try it whenever I had some free time from work. The process on this boulder has been crazy. From not being able to even do all the moves on day1 to do all the moves and pretty decent links on day2, to actually falling twice at the last move on day 3 and 4. Then on day 5, alone, I managed to put all my physical and mental energies in one single try."

Innsbruck 2018 has published a full length interview with Margo Hayes conducted during the Youth World Championship. (c) Heiko Wilhelm "I don’t think that "first female ascent" is a negative thing. There are also first male ascents and there will be more. Historically, women have not been acknowledged for their work in science, technology, politics, art, and much more. We are trying to narrow the gender gap and I think that by documenting a woman’s achievement it becomes part of history."