The biggest sensations in the semifinal in Wujiang were that the #1 and #2 in the Bouldering World Cup, Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki made it to the finals as #5 and #6. When they both last tried a Lead WC in 2014 and 2013, they ended #23 and #24. In fact, another three Asians qualified to the Top-8 semifinal which might be the first indicating that the Asians will take over the show also in Lead. Add to that is Narasaki's 7.85 in the Speed qualifications although he has just tried it out for a couple sessions during some months. Among the female, no big surprises and we saw Janja Garnbret topping out in a good style followed by Anak Verhoeven as normally, followed by Jain Kim and Akiyo Noguchi. Complete results The Live-streaming from the final starts 18.50 GMT+8, which means 12.50 European time.

1. Janja Garnbret 500 - Romain Desgranges 385 2. Jain Kim 390 - Stefano Ghisolfi 319 3. Anak Verhoeven 304 - Domen Skofic 252 4. Jessica Pilz 276 - Keiichiro Korenaga 229 5. Julia Chanourdie 273 - Marcello Bombardi 228 Complete results Janja Garnbret has secured the overall victory in practice although two events remain. It is good enough to be #13 in one event even if Jain wins the two last events. Among the males, Stefano almost needs to win both the last two events if not Romain Desgranges completely fail in these two comps. Interesting to see that Jakob Schubert is #7 having only participated in two out of six comps.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 2. Jain Kim KOR - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3. Julia Chanourdie FRA - Hanwool Kim KOR Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing Janja Garnbret was superior in the Lead World Cup in Wuijang, topping all four routes in great style. Also Stefano Ghisolfi won each round as well as topping the final route creating the perfect show in the final. Although there are two events left, Janja has already secured the overall victory again having won five of the six WCs in 2017. It should be mentioned that for the first time in 2017, the live streaming included a clock and the six minute rule did not create any big problem. The biggest sensation was that Tomoa Narasaki, #2 in the Boulder World Cup 2017, was runner up after Ghisolfi in his first Lead WC in three years. Add to that his 7.85 in the Speed qualification and he is the biggest favorite for the gold in Tokyo 2020.

Gonzalo Larrocha has done the first repeat of Daniel Fuertes' No Pain No Game 9a+ in Rodellar. It is 40 meters long out of which 30 meters goes in a roof. He has tried it several years and says that it is one of the best routes he has ever done. Previously the Spaniard has done five 9a's. (c) Manabu Yoneyama

Matthias Schiestl has done the FAs of Hias-Line 8c+ and Monkey Line 9a in Zillertal. (c) Flo Murning I tried the 8c+ for 7 days since July. It was a very old project, super dirty and a lot of work to figure out the moves. The route starts with a hard boulder problem and it is also the same start as the 9a. The hardest part is the beginning of the route, 14 moves around 8b boulder, when you climb the 8c+ then you finish with a 8a+ route and the 9a you continue to the right with an 8A boulder and a 7c+ route at the end.

Can anybody come up with an explanation why the much shorter who need to jump higher do a much more dramatic pendulum swing in the first dyno?

Alexey Rubtsov has done the first repeat of Triangular Face 8C (B+) in Triangular Lake. "I quickly realized that the boulder is my style, and after several hours of work, I managed to make the second ascent! I think that climbing 8C in one day is too difficult, so I think grade is 8B+."

Triangular Face 8B+ boulder from Veronika on Vimeo.

Black Diamond reports that Roland Hemetzberger has made the second repeat of WoGü 8c MP in Rätikon. It is considered the hardest multi-pitch in Europe; 8c, 8a, 8c, 8b+, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+. It was equipped by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 and Adam Ondra did the FA in 2008 and later Edu Marin also did it. Roland has previously done sport routes up to 9a+ and multi-pitches up to 8c+, Nirwana, which he down graded. "This year I followed a straight plan and gave all my energy and effort to this route- and spent a lot of time on the 350m wall. The climbing is so demanding, brutally fingery and sustained."

During six days, without a rest day, Alex Megos did ten routes 8b+ and harder including three 9a's around Switzerland.