NEWS

8C/8C+ (9A) traverse by Jorge Dรญaz-Rullo (18)
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the second ascent of Kaizen 8C/8C+ in Torrelodones, Spain. Beto Rocasolano did the FA and proposed 9A, without the new Jorge's beta including a rest that Jorge has found for his send making the boulder completly different. (C) Jaime Dรญaz. And writes on his scorecard: "Oh my God I still can't believe it! Thanks for this high peak motivation and strength! Tired today and having tried it just two days the last year, got a magic try and I nailed it to send.. Ace Beto for the FA. Hard to grade though with some new beta and a new rest would be easier than when Beto did it. IMO will be in the 8C/8C+ range, the repeaters will confirm it. Super happy! Now keep going! " Needs to be mention that the traverse grade is approximately two grades easier than in the regular scale. For example an 8A traverse equals to a 7C.

8A (+) by Leah Dempsey who started climbing 2013
Leah Dempsey has in just four session done Sleepy Hollow 8A (+) in Grampians and the amazing thing is that she started climbing in 2013. In 2015, she did her first 7A boulder and last year she did her first 7C. In Lead, she has jumped from 8a to 8b+ in 2017. "I donโ€™t know if I have fast track method for my progress, apart from the fact that I enjoy the whole challenge of training and taking responsibility for my own climbing and progress. Also having a super supportive and encouraging network have helped an insane amount. Believing is key! Oh, and having lots of fun!" So what about training? Mainly just bouldering in the gym, campusing, fingerboarding, as well as some basic core and shoulder stability exercises. Nothing too strict. All depends on the project/upcoming trip at the time. I make sure that I have at least five days off every four months to not burn out.

8B flash by Luca Rinaldi
Luca "Bbazooka" Rinaldi has flashed his first 8B through a solo mission on Blinded by the Light in Brione. "It was an unexpected thing. In the morning I saw Jimmy's (Webb) video. Almost always his beta is perfect for me, we are taller, we weigh 80kg and climb the same way...I wanted to try it before trying Nike (the project of the day) ...I've always thought that "the flash try" is just one for life...many times I do not try to flash the hard boulder...i think: I can't do it...but this time as in some cases I sat there and I did my first attempt from the start with the free mind and I was on top of the boulder...After 10 ten seconds i realized that in guidebook this is 8b...

8.90 by Claire Buhrfeind (19) in Speed
Claire Buhrfeind, who won the qualifications in all three disciplines in the Youth Worlds in 2017, has set a new personal best in Speed by 8.90 in the Pan American Youth Championship. In comparison to the other female athletes going for the Olympics, she is totally superior as the others still struggle mainly with 12 seconds. In 2016, Claire was #7 in the Lead World Champion and in Bouldering her best result is winning the Youth World Championship. (c) Eddie Fowke

Leonidio - The best winter destination
For several years, we have ranked the best winter destinations in Europe and last year we said Leonidio is #1. The weather statistics from he last 10 years show rather stable weather with around 10 degrees with many sunny days and few rainy days, even if January 2017 was pretty bad. Climbing wise, there are 1 300 routes divided in some 60 sectors including many multi-pitches. We stayed at Troumpas close to the see who also is a farmer. Climb in Leonidio (c) Sam Biรฉ As Leonidio is like 3.5 hours from the airport, I very nice option is to stop at Nafplio halfways with great climbing mainly up to 7a in great scenary. The picturesque city and the old fortress makes the visit even better. 45 min south of Leonidio, you will find Kapsala with an amazing red wall packed with high quality routes around 7a. If you continue 30 minutes more you reach Kyparissi which is a beautiful village by the see surrounded with walls with just a couple of minutes approach. Hotel Paraliako is 150 metres from the small harbour and 500 meters from a nice sector with 30 routes in the sixth grade. They try to become the center of climbing and plans to build a warming up wall etc. In Kyparissi, you also have Babala which is the best hard core sector in Greece and in reality a future world class wall 7c and above. Kyparissi (876 ascents) is #1 in the world's trend crag rating followed by Leonidio (6 405 ascents).

First 9a by Obed Hardmeier
Obed Hardmeier, who the last five years did just one 8c, has stepped up in 2017 with an 8c+ and a 9a, Jungfraumarathon in Gimmelwald. "It took me more sessions than expected: around 10 days. Two days before I linked it up, I slipped on the last move. I'm not sure about the reason for the progress but the climbing style in Gimmelwald certainly suits me quite well and I loved spending time in one of Swizerland`s best spots!"

20 boulder 8A - 8C in 13 days by Rauch
Christof Rauch has had two weeks off from his full time work and finished it off by doing two 8C's last Saturday; Zunami (c) Norbert Grugger and Sound of Silence which he gave a personal 8B+ grade. In total, the working class hero who just got his first first free shoes and crash pad, did make a total of 20 boulders 8A and harder during 13 days. Overall, Christof has done 501 boulders 8A and harder out of which more than 400 the last four years. Imagine if he could take one year off from work! "Yesterday I had my best climbing day ever! At first I went to Loferer Alm together with @nogrugger to try my unfinished business "Sound of Silence" (8B+). The first highlight of the day was to meet Klem Loskot and try hard together with him. After a few failed attemps I could eventually sent my project! Still had some power left and decided to drive to the legendary "Zunami" (8C) and give it a go. The upper moves felt really solid and so I gave it some tries from the start. As I stuck the first move I felt like climbing in a dream, I hit every hold perfectly. When i kept on the wall at the last hard dyno it was a surreal moment for me! Couldn't be more happy! Big thanks to @nogrugger for the support and the photo.

First 9a by Thomas Dauser
Thomas Dauser has done his first 9a, Elder Statesman in Frankenjura. In fact, last month he did his first 8c+ through The Last Rites Last after five days trying and then he needed to link it to a three moves 8A to get the 9a. Here is the video and the picture was taken by (c) Julian Sรถhnlein "While 9a is certainly a magical grade (still) in climbing, it was more about the mental and physical challenge, getting to the point where I realized I am able to climb it, and then to actually send it. I am sure I could have climbed 8c+ already last year, I was just never into so much projecting and also grades. To me, it is always a question of how much time you want to invest in one route."