Mammut has the great story from when Marcel Remy, born 1923, climbed the 450 meter Miroir de l'Argentine in Western Switzerland. Talking to his son, Claude, one of the most dedicated bolters in the world, he said that the 5b+ grade is a super sand bag. In reality comparing to modern sport climbing it is in fact much harder.

The eight and last stage of the Lead World Cup will take place this weekend in Kranj. Janja Garnbret has already secured the overall title and Romain Desgranges needs to be in Top-15, otherwise Stefao Ghisolfi could get the title. 1. Romain Desgranges 440 - Janja Garnbret 565 2. Stefano Ghisolfi 362 - Jain Kim 445 3. Keiichiro Korenaga 339 - Anak Verhoeven 404 4. Domen Skofic 270 - Jessica Pilz 330 5. Marchello Bombardi 246 - Julia Chanourdie 307 As the Olympics is getting closer, several boulderers will try out Lead; Shauna Coxsey, Stasa Gejo, Jongwon Chon and the Japanese boulderers. Interesting is also that Alex Megos, who won the semi i Arco, will try it again after having prepared himself outdoors in Leonidio. Saturday 11th November 08:00 Men's Lead Qualification - Updated results 13:00 Women's Lead Qualification - Updated results 20:00 Lead Semi-Finals LIVE-STREAMING Sunday 12th November 17:00 Lead Finals (LIVE)

The Kranj semifinal possibly set a new record when it comes to ties. Nine male came to hold 34 out of which seven got a plus and in the end it was the qualification result that decided whether you made it to the final. Romain Desgranges was ninth but was probably satisfied anyhow with this as that made him secure the overall victory. The biggest surprise was Jan Hojer at #5 but other then that, the boulderers had difficulties at the relatively short wall. Last out was Jakob Schubert, who saved the show, by touching and winning the male semifinal. Among the female, we got four tops and 17 girls on hold 30 or 30,5. When a 0,5 hold is given it normally means that the route setters have missed that a foot hold created an easier sequence. In the end, Akiyo Noguchi was the only one on 30.5+ to make it to the final. The big surprise and very good news was that Shauna Coxsey made it to the final. Complete results (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Janja Garnbret put on yet another amazing show winning her ninth World Cup victory in 2017 in Kranj. In total, she won six Lead World Cups and in the remaining two she was third. Jain Kim was second and secured her second position also overall. In total, she was Top-4 in all but one event. Molly Thompson-Smith set a new personal best and she is the without any doubt the biggest surprise on the female scene in 2017. Last year she was mainly doing Youth comps but never better than #7. Including in her preparation for Kranj, she did her first 8b+ in Raven Tor this week! (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing 1. Jakob Schubert AUT - Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Alex Megos GER - Jain Kim KOR 3. Dmitrii Fakiroanov RUS - Molly Thompson-Smith GBR Interesting Jakob, who has just done three Lead WCs in 2017, 1 - 3 - 1, explained that part of his success is that he has done less comps and did not feel any pressure. Further more he said he does not follow a strict training schedule. The same goes, in fact, also for the runner-up Megos who prior to Kranj, climbed eight days in a row and did just have time for one gym sessions before Kranj. For Dmitrii it was his first World Cup in 2017. It should also be mentioned that the commentating with the experience competitions climbers did a great job including great interviews. Complete results

1. Romain Desgranges 477 - Janja Garnbret 665 2. Stefano Ghisolfi 413 - Jain Kim 525 3. Keiichiro Korenaga 373 - Anak Verhoeven 444 4. Domen Skofic 325 - Jessica Pilz 374 5. Marcello Bombardi 289 - Julia Chanourdie 362 6. Jakob Schubert 265 - Mina Markovic 304 Complete results

Listening to the Alex Megos "talkshow" with Klemen Becan at the Leonidio Festival and talked to him and his coach Dicki Korb, the message is clear, it is about enjoying the challenges. They can be served as projects, onsights, WC competitions, training exercises or complicated yoga positions. Megos says he enjoys them all and his trainer underlines that it is about using your creativity to make also the hardest training like a fun challenge. Tomorrow, Alex is competing in Kranj and meanwhile his opponents have done sessions in their gym to optimize their plastic feeling the last weeks, the 24 year old have enjoyed eight climbing days in a row in Leonidio plus one gym session. Two months ago he competed in Lead in Arco, having just returned from a bouldering trip in Rocklands, and he won the semifinal. (c) Micha Schreiber - It is also about meeting friends in Kranj that I not meet so often. It will be fun. I have not yet made up my mind if I will go for the Olympics. There are so many things to do. Participating at the Olympics with no commitment makes no sense for me. Therefore I have to bring some sacrifices, bigger than ever before in my climbing. It's a situation where you shouldn't make a rushed decision. Sure I will have great fun challenging the Speed route in the beginning but it will take much more. The good thing is of course that with the multiplication format, during the qualifications, it will be most important to perform on the highest level in two disciplines. Once you are among the 20 going for the Olympics, the result also in Speed will become more important.

Charles Albert, who stopped using climbing shoes some five years ago, has added a three move lower start to his La Revolutionnaire in Fotainebleau, making it his first 8C+. Charles says he do not think it is possible with shoes as there is a good pocket where he can squeeze in his big toe pulling in hard, meanwhile with a shoe, you can just push with your foot. In total he needed around 15 sessions. In the picture, the previous sit start is marked with red dots. Previously he has done three 8C's. Is this the hardest boulder in the world to repeat? Probably, any of the top boulders would need years of preparation to develop the big toe pulling in strength as well as the barefoot technique Charles possesses.

Patxi Usobiaga, one of the very best competition climbers in the history has done Pachamama 9a+/b in Oliana. It was put up in 2009 and it has been repeated five times out which some have said it is hard for the grade. Patxi is the first to suggest 9a+/b. Patxi's story of the eight year battle. Patxi has a special relationship with this route cause back in 2009 was where he got injured his shoulder and months later due to the car crash he stopped climbing for years. Last april Patxi sent again 9a+ with Papichulo and then he tried the route for a while. (c) Javipec

For every of the 5 000 crags in the 8a data base, you can find a season diagram that can help you to find the best time of the year to visit a specific crag. The upper diagram is from Leonidio which just might have the biggest proportion of winter ascents. Below you have Kalymnos diagram, which shows a stronger concentration during late spring and autumn.