NEWS

8A+ in an hour by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has set some kind of record by taking down Le Retour de Goupil 8A+ in Hueco Tanks in just an hour. In total, she has done 21 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ the last year which also is a female record. In the 8a rankinggme she is #21 and she is actually almost 1 000 points ahead in the female ranking game. (c) Sarah Filler

The winter is approaching creating often better conditions. Climbing on a sunny wall is nice even in zero degrees. When there is no sun or windy, bouldering works fine through warming up exercises and a big jacket. Here are some tips how to be able to also climb longer routes when it is almost freezing and no sun, beside wearing warm clothing. 1. (Vertic) sleeves on forehand 2. Heater in chalk bag 3. Holes in pockets to place hand on stomach 4. Gloves with open fingers 5. Socks in bigger shoes 6. Shoes inside the jacket

Lucifer 8c+ by Claire Buhrfeind (19)
Claire Buhrfeind reports on Instagram that she has done Lucider 8c+ and Omaha Beach 8b+ in Red River Gorge on the same day. The 19 year old won all the three disciplines at the Youth World Championship and she is with 8.90, the fastest female climber performing at a high level in Lead and Bouldering. In other words, she is one of the candidates for a medal in Tokyo. (c) Matty Hong

Chong Pli a compliment to Railay
Chong Pli, with some 70 routes in between 5 to 8, is located some 10 km from Ao'nang, where you take the boat to Railay. "As this crag โ€œChong Pliโ€ is fairly recent, polish on the routes is not an issue. We have opened up a humble bungalow resort with restaurant at the base of this crag. We climb here and take the longtailboat on days when we want to climb on Tonsai/Railay."

Tesio and Avezou Euro Youth Champs in Combined
Gergia Tesio and Sam Avezou won the European Youth A Combined Championships. The fastest time out of the, excluding the Speed specialists, got Sam with 7.77. The competition was held in Saint Etienne and a total of 41 participants tried the three disciplines. Complete results ยฉ FASI Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana

9a by Stefano Carnati (19)
Stefano Carnati, who last year did four 9a's and Goldrake 9a+, has done his first 9a in 2017, Perfect man 2.0 in Albenga. "This year I had school exams in June and I dedicate a lot of time into studying." (c) Pietro Biagini "Props to Andrea Gallo for finding this line and Matteo for bolting and climbing it! Very nice route with good and powerful moves starting with a roof and finishing with a very overhanging wall! Took me a while to figure out all the moves. Came back today to finish it and found out a hold I used for resting and clipping broke off. Had to change beta and fortunately it worked! Felt slightly easier than 9a with the new betas. In my opinion could be 8c+9a."

Coxsey & Crane in California
Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane have become well known as inseparable training buddies, the grueling hours spent down at the gym, hanging on the fingerboard or lifting weights have become interspersed with lighthearted yogabatics, 360 degree rotation challenges on the wall and of course plenty of giggling! โ€œWhen you train so intensely, having a training partner makes all the difference. There are good times and hard times, down times and psyched times... it's always better with a training buddy.โ€ Leah Crane & Shauna Coxsey Both Shauna and Leah come from non-climbing families, yet started indoors around the age of four. Shauna, originally from Runcorn and Leah from Nottingham would compete in local and national comps before gaining a place on the Junior British team at around the age of twelve. They have been climbing together on and off for the last fifteen years, from the early days of competing at junior national finals, GB trips to Fontainebleau and now to full times training and competing to-gether. Shauna is 2016 & 2017 world IFSC Boulder World Cup Champion and is also the first British women to climb 8B & 8B+. Leah has been competing on and off for many years and with a couple of national titles under her belt she committed to a full Boulder World Cup session last year, finishing 11th overall and this year 25th overall. Before the Boulder World Cups began this year the pair headed across the pond to California for a two week training camp, visit to muscle beach and of course Joshua Tree. Alongside this, they also managed to fit in a trip to 5.10 HQ where they provided feedback on the ideal competition shoe. 5.10 have been working closely with Shauna to design the perfect competition shoe. The new Anasazi VCS Pro will be introduced in spring 2018. The โ€˜Proโ€™ model will have a Mi6 rubber toe patch, improved heel tension for better fit and performance and a breathable, padded mesh tongue.

8A+ by Lucy Humphreys
26 November 2017

8A+ by Lucy Humphreys

Lucy Humphreys has done her first 8A+, Diaphanous sea in Hueco Tanks. She has previously done four 8A's out of which three last year. Here is the video. "I can't believe it! Two weeks ago I could hardly walk properly, and today, I ticked a climb from my life list, gimpy ankle and all! Couldn't be more stoked to return to Hueco healthy to see what I can put down. I sprained my ankle four weeks before my trip, but we had already booked everything, so I decided to go anyways! The injury meant that I wasn't able to heel hook, toe hook, knee bar, or drop knee properly, which is not an easy task in Hueco. However, the biggest challenge was that I wasn't able to fall on it at all! I had to be extremely careful, and either be sure that I could do a boulder, or sort of eject from the problem onto my back! It was pretty frustrating at first, but as the trip went on I got used to it.