Paul Robinson comes with the great news that one sector in Hueco Tanks has been reopened. (c) Keith Allan - A new map of hell 8A, FA Fred Nicole 1996. "Fred Nicole was climbing in this one area in Hueco Tanks on east mountain more than 20 years ago. it was a small area called the 5 bimbos area. There are a few established climbs there. At the end of last season they reopened the area to climbing. They closed it to erosion i believe but they now have anti erosion measures in place and the boulders are back open! I bet there is potential for about 5-10 new climbs."

"My Updates" in the left column list the ascents from Scorecard and Crags you are interested of. Just go to your friends scorecard and add it and the same you can do with crags, where you also can specify which grade filter wanted.

The first big climbing competition in 2018 was hold in Milan and the winners in Lead were Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic and in Boulder Anna Stöhr and Gabriele Moroni. Runner-ups were Laura Rogara and Stefano Ghisolfi and Kilian Fischhuber and Katha Saurwein. The World Cup 2018 starts in Switzerland with Bouldering 13/4.

ADVERTORIAL - Margalef, March 2018. Rockbusters invite you to join a unique climbing masterclass with Adam Ondra, Patxi Usobiaga and Pablo Scorza. Redefine your limits, stay injury free and enjoy years of sustainable progress. Adam Ondra’s coaching in Margalef focuses on specific OS/RP strategies and attitude required for success in hard routes. You’ll identify your strengths and weaknesses and work on immediate performance improvement. Patxi Usobiaga’s indoor training workshop details advanced exercise protocols which allow climbers to go far beyond their preconceived limits. You’ll learn how targeted training translates to success on the rock. Pablo Scorza is a physiotherapist specializing in the bio-mechanics of climbing. You’ll gain an understanding of the cumulative effects of climbing and training, learn about injury prevention and maximize the efficiency of your movement. Join the event at Rockbusters.net

Many think flash and onsight are most fun and it is also what counts in competitions. The dilemma is of course that instead most of the time you end up with projecting redpoints. The easy way to have more fun and get better training indoors is to create new climbs by mixing up different colors of harder climbs or simply just add a specific color for your feet. This is also a good way to reduce some of the frustration for the kids who often do not reach making a climb impossible or just totally wrong graded. On the other hand, you can also select new rainbow challenges by mixing colors but take out some specific jugs. The possibilities are endless and it will sure have a great impact and you will get out of the grade focus. Remember that back in the old days, the boulder walls were covered with holds and you had to create and execute different moves in every sessions.

Max Bertone has for the third year in a row done an 8A, Dirty Epic in Rocklands. If he wants to stay on par with his two year older sister Oriane, he needs to do an 8B within a year. Bear in mind that climbers normally avoid the 30+ temperature in Rocklands during the summer, meaning they can only climb very early and very late during the day. In between, the children have schooling. Do not miss the great video!

tomas ravanal, who last week did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, has made the FA of Sin acido clorhidico 8c+, in the same famous El Pati sector. It just took the Chilean ten tries to do the almost 40 meter route which shares the start with 20 Años Después 9a. El Pati is one of the most famous hard core sector in the world and Tomas just made the eleventh 8c+ and harder. "Dani changed some bolts and it is a perfectly fine. The route was clean when I started to try it! I don't really know why anyone has climbed before."