NEWS

Loose Rock and bring a fixed key
Here are some Safety First tips that you always should have in mind. The picture shows a loose rock that was taken down from a trad route in Gรถteborg. Just below, there is a a school, houses and a frequent path so we had to drill a hole and rappel it down.

26 January 2018

Yes - That is a dab!

Quick decisions and dynamic moves are what counts doing onsights and here is probably where you can improve the fastest. The easiest way is simply climb routes and boulders with just using one arm or one leg. Normally the indoor routes are deliberately build so you can always stay in your comfort zone but this soft training will make you hesitate when some other techniques are needed. Do not do too much training with just one arm as this can make you injure your shoulder and you can also switch arm every five moves or so. Another option is to say that you for the other hand are just allowed to take the smallest holds. If it is routes on your maximum you can use all footholds on the wall. In order to get stronger using just one arm you are also allowed to grab your wrist which actually can be useful also on specific routes. Remember that the more you are just climbing the comfort zone routes in your gym in combination with projecting down personal best, the smaller your move repertoire will get.

One more 8C FA by Dai Koyamada (41)
Dai Koyamada, one of the leading climbers the last twenty years, reports on Instagram that he has done a new 8C FA in Yakushima. The 41 year old has in total opened close to 30 boulders graded 8C and in this category he is rather superior.

Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram, "7.77 speed time, 8b+ boulder flash and 9b route redpoint all within 2 weeks, olympics Iโ€˜m coming for you!" Here is our updated Olympic prediction. 1. Janja Garnbret - Tomoa Narasaki 2. Claire Buhrfeind - Adam Ondra 3. Shauna Coxsey - Stefano Ghisolfi 4. Ashima Shiraishi - Jakob Schubert 5. Jain Kim - Yushiyuki Ogata

2nd 8b by Maria Sperl (39) who started slowly being 30
Maria Sperl started climbing slowly being being a single mother 30 years old and it changed her life. The last two years she got more time and she just did her second 8b, Morci in Leonidio. "In the 20-ies I did a lot of training in the gym and I think this was a good prevention for climbing regarding injuries and I had also a bit body power and power in the arms. I started to climb with my little sister at our small home crags. We didn't have any experience with the handling and we didn't do any climbing course and afterwords I'm happy, that I didn't get injured seriously. When I started climbing, I could not spend much time in climbing because my little son needed my time. But I was so psyched because of that sport- it changed my life during the years essentially. The last two years I got more and more time for climbing- so I could make progress every year. Climbing in different spots, different rock types and going on holidays for longer now is a privilege for me and makes me stronger by every trip. I'm still learning a lot regarding training, mental and technical aspects. Last year I climbed first 8b. So I'm getting more and more confidence to do harder routes."

Adam Ondra has onsighted Combinazione 8c in Pontebrolla which might not be so newsworthy as it was his 79th onsight 8c to 9a. However, 8c onsights in the climbing community are very rare. Most probably, the 24 year old Czech has onsighted at least two thirds of all 8c ever been onsighted and for 8c+ and harder his ascents stand for some 80 %. Add to that all his personal grades and we are getting close to 100 routes originally graded 8c. It might be good for all the youngsters to know that Adam's focus has always been onsight no matter the grade and the same goes for Alex Megos. It seems that the guys going for the onsight challenges in the end have better chances to become the best. Overall, Adam has onsighted over 500 routes 8a+ to 9a. Here is what he answered in his first ever 8a interview being 11 years old, in regards Which is your next goal? I don't like speaking about my plans very much. So only in general - I always try to climb as many routes of the grade OS (now, it is 8b). I usually don't try harder things for a long time.