NEWS

10 April 2018

Crazy Oliana

Most top climbers reach healthy BMI
Nando Zanchetta has searched the internet for the weight and length for some top athletes in order to measure BMI. Based on that IFSC reports males with lower than 18 and female with lower than 17, it seems under weight seems not be be such a big issue. Bear in mind also that Asians normally have a lower BMI and that goes also for teenagers. On the other hand, the Boulder World Cup winner 2017, Jongwon Chon from Korea has a BMI at 17.1 by 176 cm and 53 kg. However, coaches and athletes have said that it seems he actually eats healthy. He is just like some Asians, naturally very skinny.

8B and 8A+ in a day by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done the FFA of Delusion of Grandeur 8B (on the picture) and after she sent as well Electric Ant 8A+ in Chironico. Days ago she also did an 8A and 8A+. ยฉChad Greedy "Wow! So psyched, super classic boulder. not my style at all....slopers.. really big crux move that is my full extension. Top out is high and committing and satisfying... I was scared on the slab! not usually an FFA type of girl.. I think its dumb in most cases.. but I think I'm the first girl to do this, and it's one of the most classic boulders in Ticino so thats kinda cool.. Went up and the Electric Ant (the new start) right after! Probably one of my best days of climbing!" Isabelle has logged on her scorecard 93 ascents from 8A to 8B+ and is one of the best boulderers of all time.

How to gain flexibility and climb like Ondra
Talking about flexibility and that the top Japanese boulderers stretch four hours a day, we have asked Klaus Isele, MSc D.O. Physiotherapeut and Osteopath of the Austria National Climbing Team and Adam Ondra, for some advice. Adam has been stretching systematically since he was a kid and is probably the top climber with most flexibility, which is part of his success. The picture is taken during the stretching preparation just some minutes before Ondra did the world's first 9c, Silence in Flatanger. "If itโ€™s the case that you always fall off your slab project just because your hips canโ€™t stay close enough to the wall stretching exercises could maybe help. If you do proper stretching you might achieve your goals faster and better. Bodyweight and stretching have something in common. You might not have the perfect bodyweight for climbing. Nature puts you somewhere but with some effort you can gain or loose some kilograms. What I still monitor is that some climbers believe that it is enough to stretch for 40 seconds in order to get โ€œlongerโ€ = forget it. You need to hold a stretching position for two minutes (I often recommend three times the same position with that holding time). That works! To really gain length you have to repeat it every day. Your results will be visible after approximately 14 days. Afterwards depending on what you want to achieve keep going. If youโ€™ve forgotten to stretch one day, you are thrown back for about four days, especially at the beginning. The so called hysteresis phenomenon is the base of this, if you want you can say that it is the โ€œsupercompensationโ€ of stretching. Conclusion: There is no wrong or right stretching, it just depends on what you wanna achieve with it. If you prepare yourself for climbing it might be sufficient for you to stretch for 30 seconds. But if you are really interested in gaining length in some muscular areas then you need to work on every section for two minutes in every stretching position."

Second 9a by Julia Chanourdie
Fanatic Climbing reports that Julia Chanourdie, #5 in the World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, Molasseโ€™son in Mollans. Photo: Jocelyn Chavy "It has been a while some people were speaking to me about this crag of Mollans. I was there for the first time last October. from the beginning, โ€œMollasseโ€™sonโ€ inspired me a lot. This route is in a 45ยฐ overhang and maybe more in some parts. It could be broken in very intense parts of finger resistance between few rests. The hardest part is for me the start, very bouldery."

The graph shows the Google Trend female statistics based on Sports. Alex Puccio is rather superior and surprisingly Lynn Hill is second, well above Ashima Shiraishi and Janja Garnbret.

28th 8A+ by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done Second Life 8A+ in Chironico and in the All Time Ranking game, she is #3. (c) Chad Greedy "First try second day, thought I would be able to do this quick, but its super long and the end gets hard! the first day was a bit cold and I kept numbing out, but yesterday was warm, and it felt a lot better ! psyched its awesome!!! did all the moves of great shark hunt in the dark afterwards... sharp but cool... the list is always growing."

Zander Waller (14) jumps from 8b to 8c+
Zander Waller, #4 in the Youth WCH in 2017, skips 8b+ and 8c and does his first 8c+ through Lucifer in Red River Gorge and it only took him three sessions and seven tries in total. Here his Insta. "For the past few months I have been training very hard in the gym, and my jump from 8b to 8c+ actually took me by surprise. I've tried a couple of 8b+'s recently, but haven't put much effort into them. I feel like since I don't climb outside very consistently, that everytime I go, I get stronger from the weeks (or even months) of training in the gym. I'm not sure there is a certain way to jump from 8b to 8c+, but for me it took a lot of training and motivation. I think this year I would like to focus a lot of my attention into outdoor climbing, but my main focus is still on competitions."

Based on the official Similarweb statistics, we can see a very strong development in traffic for 8a during the last months since Vertical-Life started optimizing 8a.nu. What is unique with the 8a.nu traffic is that 88 % is direct meaning that the visitors have actually written 8a.nu in the browser. This figure is normally below 50 % for similar websites, meaning they get most of their traffic through Google Search or Facebook.