NEWS

19 July 2018

Kyparissi

Cathy Wagner has done her 15th 8b, Requiem in Prรฉcipice de Corbiรจre. The almost 53 year old did her first 8b being 35 years old and as a matter of fact, during the last year she has done three 8b's and 16 routes 8a+, meaning she has her best year ever. In total, Cathy has done 670 routes 8a and harder, out of which possibly a third second go. "Really unexpected to do this outstanding king line! A massive overhang offering climbing at its best:perfect rock, two hard sections, a technical wall at the end and knee bars to make it possible to control this beast! What a great day shared with a lot of friendly climbers! Super contente!!"

8C FA by Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson, who has done some 900 boulders 8A and harder, has done the FA of Pirateโ€™s Code in Three Corners. In total, Paul has put up 75 boulders here out of which 26 8A and harder. Three Corners is located "Words cannot really describe this one. It has been a dream of mine to climb this boulder since i first found it in 2014. 16, 17, 18 were spent working this monster of a line and now it is complete. the king line in my favorite place in the world. does it really get any better than this!? Climbing is such an incredible thing and it feels really good to complete this goal after thinking about it for so so long. *I have eliminated the stand start from last year since it is a slightly arbitrary start. the full line is the line and now is THE PIRATE'S CODE! I look forward to some other strong guys trying this climb one day! I only ever tried it by myself so it will be great to see what others think of it :)"

As a preparation for the Olympic Games qualification, IFSC has changed the Overall ranking. Only athletes that have participated in at least two events per discipline are included in the ranking. In other words, in the below ranking, Tomoa Narasaki's score of 8 is based on 1 * 1 * 2 * 4 * 1 *1 (Boulder/Lead/Speed). His best result is Speed is #31 but as none of the 30 higher ranked have participated in also Lead and Boulder, he is the #1 ranked in Speed. Noteworthy is that 9 out of the Top-8*2 come from Japan. 1. Tomoa Narasaki 8 - Miho Nonaka 24 2. Jakob Schubert 192 - Akiyo Noguchi 120 3. Kokoro Fujii 270 - Iuliia Pantaleeva 3 528 4. Yoshiyuki Ogata 960 - Mei Kotake 8 064 5. Jernej Kruder 9 504 - Petra Klingler 8 600 6. Kai Harada 10 800 - Futaba Ito 15 360 7. Yufei Pan 21546 - Jain Kim 16 016 8. Keita Dohi 45 696 - Elena Krasovskaia 17576 Complete results "11.7.8 Only competitors who compete in a minimum of 2 (two) World Cup competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) in the current season shall be given an Overall World Cup Ranking. When a competitor participates to more than 2 (two) competitions in a discipline than the best 2 (two) results in that discipline shall be selected. 11.7.9 The Overall World Cup Ranking shall be calculated as follows: i. Each eligible competitor shall be awarded โ€œRanking Pointsโ€ for each completed competition equal to the relative ranking calculated by ranking in ascending order (i.e. lower values are better) only competitors satisfying Article 11.7.8. ii. A Ranking Point Total shall be calculated for each relevant competitor by multiplying together the Ranking Points awarded for each eligible competition. iii. Each relevant competitor shall be ranked in ascending order of the Ranking Point Total calculated for each competitor (i.e. lower values are better)."

9a+ FA by Jorge Dรญaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that has done the FA of Panorama 9a+ in Patones, Spain. ยฉGermรกn Gonzรกlez "Yes! After a lot of days trying it, getting the good betas and even failing ... Today I've done maybe the hardest route I've climbed so far! It's never easy to climb a first ascent, and much less if the betas are yours ... I'm already wishing to someone's repeat! I will miss the wall but Panorama 9a +? is already on my list !! In the ranking game Jorge #1 in Spain and #5 in the world ranking.

8c+ by Moritz Welt (17)
Moritz Welt has done Demonstrating my Style 8c+ in Frankenjura on his fourth go. The 17 year old is one of the 8a members that are ticking most routes and boulders and just the last three weeks, he has done 16 routes 8a and harder.

8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did an 8c in 2016 being 11 years old, has done the fourth ascent of Szydercze zwierciadล‚o 8c+ in Podzamcze. video "It is very short - 5 quickdraws, and 12 cruxy moves on slopy mono holes, so it is quite hard to find the beta there. The holds were so bad, that I couldn't even use my chalk bag. But when the beta was finally found, i understood, that the hardest work is still undone. For example, I found the beta on the third day of climbing, and I climbed the route only on the 8-th day. It is due to the required accuracy of the moves. If i will put the leg a centimeter higher, I won't be able to do the move. And exactly the same situation happened with hands."

9a+ in Rodellar by Piotr Schab
Piotr Schab, #2 in the 8a ranking game, has done Ali Hulk Extension Total 9a+ in Rodellar. "What a way to finish the trip! Extra extension, in my opinion makes a big difference. Super complicated route, to get to know all the tricks seems to be a crux. First ascent of this combination I guess."

Battle Cat 8c/+ by Sarah Kampf (37)
Sarah Kampf, who pre- viously has sent four 8c's, has done Battle Cat 8c/+ in Frankenjura after some 15 days of work. ยฉ Lars Decker "Battle Cat is the most beautiful route I have climbed so far. The line is amazing and with its ca. 30 meters it is really uni- que for Fran- ken. It requi- res both endu- rance and max power, the single parts are pretty varied. Clipping the anchor of Battle Cat means a lot to me and I am very grateful for the people who supported this journey, it wouldn't have been possible without them." How can you explain continuing being on your peak being 37 and with two small kids? Hm, not quite sure, it is probably several reasons. I love climbing so much and I am really motivated. I have great climbers surrounding me who are inspiring me a lot. Furthermore, I am lucky to only work parttime which gives me time to train. And most important: I get awesome support by my husband. I don't follow a specific training regime but when time is too short to climb outdoors I often do some finger board training at home.