NEWS

Climbing is for everyone โ€“ โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ
Climbers Paradise Tirol, together with Black Diamond and Tirol Werbung, started a charity campaign for Paraclimbing Austria โ€“ climbers with disabilities. The purpose of โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ is to support paraclimbers in training and competitions. The organizers send out a crash-pad-couch that travels through Tirolโ€™s climbing crags, meeting paraclimbers, families, pros and locals. For the climbing world championships, the couch will return to Innsbruck. It will be signed by the designated world champions and raffled among all donors. In the picture Hannes Mayer. Kick-off video Here you can support Paraclimbing Austria and โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ: Paraclimbing.net

9a FA by Ramonet again
Ramon Julian, the double lead world champion, has done his 14th 9a FA Escalfit in Collsuspina. "A project of many years very similar to Frankenjura, today I have done the first ascent! Now for more! (c) Riki Kalamontse In total the 36 year old and 159 cm tall has done 50 routes 9a and 9a+. Including also 20 World Cups win the last 18 years, he should be considered one of the best climbers in the world since 2000.

9a (8c+) by Chaehyeon Seo (14)
Chaehyeon Seo, who did her first 8b+ being 12 years old, has done Bad Girls Club 9a Rifle. Few have suggested 8c+ but Daniel Woods have commented, "For sure harder than most 9as that I have done." Her father is a gym owner and takes her for long climbing trips every year. "She climbs and trains after she gets out of school. Her training time is about 5hours a day when she does. I make her training plans and I make new climbing problems for her on the spray wall daily. I would like her to be a climber that truly joins climbing."

30 July 2018

Olympic prediction

The qualification to Tokyo 2020 will start in just nine months. Here is a speculation of who got the best chances for getting the Olympic gold. 1. Tomoa Narasaski - Janja Garnbret 2. Adam Ondra - Miho Nonaka 3. Jakob Schubert - Akiyo Noguchi 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Claire Buhrfeind 5. Yushiyuki Ogata - Shauna Coxey 6. Alex Megos - Stasa Gejo

8b+ (c) flash by Loic Timmermans
loic Timmermans has flashed Face Bouc in Ailefrode giving it a personal grade of 8b+. "Amazing line and really interesting moves. Heel hook was key. Not pumpy enough for 8c?" (c) Chloe Caulier Last year he was #5 in the Lead WC in Chamonix and in 2018 his best is #13 and in the last event in Arco he was #17.

Rock Master Festival reports that Reinhold Messner got the Climbing Ambassador award, Adam Ondra the Wild Country Rock award and Romain Desgranges La Sportiva Competition award. It should be mentioned that Adam said he thought Angela Eiter better deserved the award for being the first female to do a 9b.

9a by Jonathan Siegrist again
Jonathan Siegrist has made a quick ascent in just three tries of Honour and Glory 9a in Echo Canyon. "Strength endurance crimping at its finest, in a fantastic setting! Perfectly my style, but I definitely hesitate when calling it 9a... time will tell. 3 tries." This was Jonathan's 27th 9a and possibly his fastest but it might be that he is peaking as he just in July also have done four 8c+'s. (c) Mike Hopkins On his Insta he gives more details like, "the hike is a solid 90 minutes and 2k elevation, the conditions are bizarre because not only does the wall seep like crazy (many holds on HnG were wet) but the mornings are pretty damn chilly and then suddenly at 1:30pm it gets debilitatingly hot."

In the last competition in Briancon, Alex Megos won ahead of Romain Desgranges but they were eliminated in the Arco semifinal. Among the female, it is the same old story with Janja Garnbret winning both the qualification and the semifinal. Complete results