NEWS

Second 8A+ by Leah Dempsey
Leah Dempsey has done her second 8A+, Myology in XXXX. In the female 8a ranking game the Australien is #9. (c) Matt Norgrove

Respect @Silvapark
3 August 2018

Respect @Silvapark

โ€œRecently, climbers destroyed fixtures in the bath room facilities at the parking spot Silvapark Galtรผr. The "Bergbahnen Galtรผr" provides parking spaces, waste buckets, toilets and washing rooms. They also put up a fountain for us! It took years of discussions with the authorities to get the permission to drive up there and, I think, weโ€™ve finally reached an amazing agreement. Right now, we are allowed to camp for FREE, but if there are more problems in future, this permit will be revoked. I was informed by "Bergbahnen Galtรผr" that many campers leave their tents during the day, making it impossible for cars to park. I am happy that they still give us the opportunity to solve our problems, so that bouldering at Silvapark remains a comfortable experience for everybody. So, please keep the place clean and think about other climbers when putting up your tent up there!โ€ Bernd Zangerl

Climbing is for everyone โ€“ โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ
Climbers Paradise Tirol, together with Black Diamond and Tirol Werbung, started a charity campaign for Paraclimbing Austria โ€“ climbers with disabilities. The purpose of โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ is to support paraclimbers in training and competitions. The organizers send out a crash-pad-couch that travels through Tirolโ€™s climbing crags, meeting paraclimbers, families, pros and locals. For the climbing world championships, the couch will return to Innsbruck. It will be signed by the designated world champions and raffled among all donors. In the picture Hannes Mayer. Kick-off video Here you can support Paraclimbing Austria and โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ: Paraclimbing.net

9a FA by Ramonet again
Ramon Julian, the double lead world champion, has done his 14th 9a FA Escalfit in Collsuspina. "A project of many years very similar to Frankenjura, today I have done the first ascent! Now for more! (c) Riki Kalamontse In total the 36 year old and 159 cm tall has done 50 routes 9a and 9a+. Including also 20 World Cups win the last 18 years, he should be considered one of the best climbers in the world since 2000.

International Climbing Survey
Are you a passionate rock climber? Do you prefer climbing in the gym? How can your climbing gym improve their service? Share your thoughts in the climbersโ€™ survey โ€“ as a reward, you will get a climbing guidebook of your choice in the Vertical-Life Climbing app. This international survey is intended to learn more about climbersโ€™ habits and their requirements for climbing gyms. The results will be published in special interest media and will be shared with climbing gyms and route setters. You can take the survey in English or in German

9a (8c+) by Chaehyeon Seo (14)
Chaehyeon Seo, who did her first 8b+ being 12 years old, has done Bad Girls Club 9a Rifle. Few have suggested 8c+ but Daniel Woods have commented, "For sure harder than most 9as that I have done." Her father is a gym owner and takes her for long climbing trips every year. "She climbs and trains after she gets out of school. Her training time is about 5hours a day when she does. I make her training plans and I make new climbing problems for her on the spray wall daily. I would like her to be a climber that truly joins climbing."

30 July 2018

Olympic prediction

The qualification to Tokyo 2020 will start in just nine months. Here is a speculation of who got the best chances for getting the Olympic gold. 1. Tomoa Narasaski - Janja Garnbret 2. Adam Ondra - Miho Nonaka 3. Jakob Schubert - Akiyo Noguchi 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Claire Buhrfeind 5. Yushiyuki Ogata - Shauna Coxey 6. Alex Megos - Stasa Gejo