NEWS

Pilz won by topping 10 seconds faster than Garnbret
Jessica Pilz was second last out and passed comfortably Jain Kim's highpoint. She reached the third last hold with 2.00 min left but looked shaky setting up for the last double dyno which she barely hold and the crowd including her coach just went crazy as she clipped with 1.33 left. (c) IFSC live-streaming. All the pressure on Janja and she climbed fast, being some seconds ahead of Jessica and reached the third last hold with 2.15 min remaining. The clock kept ticking but she could not find a good enough sequence hesitating some 25 seconds before she did the second last move and the double dyno with ease but ten seconds late. The excitement was at it's epicentrum and neither the commentators or Jessica or Janja did knew who won. Then we could see that Janja was informed she was second and in another 30 seconds it was official. Jessica Pilz is the 2018 World Champion and in just another minute, she was interviewed live. Complete results

E.O.F.T. 2018/19: On Tour from October
The European Outdoor Film Tour is coming of age! For 18 years, the E.O.F.T. has been presenting the best outdoor, adventure, and travel documentaries on the big screen. A highlight of this year's tour is the portrait of an exceptional talent and this year's 'poster boy' Adam Ondra. The Czech climber ascends the most difficult routes in the world and seems to effortlessly overcome gravity. This extraordinary athlete, who exhibits acute mental strength by scaling an 8aโ€”blindfolded, is portrayed in the film 'The A.O.' But that's not all, of course. Tom Belz, on crutches and with only one leg, ascends the highest mountain in Africa . As usual, the E.O.F.T. also has a lot to offer for devotees of flowing MTB trails, the finest powder, and lots of adrenalin. All information regarding the E.O.F.T. 18/19 programme and tickets to the event in your city.

2*4 ties in semi - time critical in the final
Although the semifinal route was nice, it was way too easy. At the end, when the four favorites climbed and topped, there was almost no excitement and the spectators were quite retracted. Further more another four got 44+ and there will be ten doing the final at 19.00. This means that the World Championship podium could be decided who climbs the fastest if there are ties among the Top-3 in the final. In fact it could have been eleven girls into the final but Lucka Rakovec (17) stood on a bolt. Anyhow Slovenia did get two into the final as did Japan and Austria. One big problem is that there are no watch visible in the screen so it will be hard to follow who is climbing faster. Other than that, the live-streaming was at it's best also including a digital map showing who is in the lead etc. Complete results

In general, the 20 top ranked Combined female did really well. Nine made it to the semi: Ondra, Ghisolfi, Megos, T Narasaki, M Narasaki, Skofic, Harada, Rubtsov, Bosi. #27 Kokoro Fujii, # Jan Hojer 29, #29 Yanick Flohe, #31 Yoshiyuki Ogata, #33 Jongwon Chon,#35 Jernej Kruder, #37 Sean McColl, #55 Mickael Mawem, #73 Rei Sugimoto, #80 Manuel Cornu, #105 Bassa Mawem. The biggest set back was Ogata at #31 and Sugimoto at #73.

8b (+) by Maggie Odette (48)
Maggie Odette has done Millennium 8b (+) in Maple Canyon. "Itโ€™s a really cool line that gives you an 8a pump before doing a 7A+/B boulder, with a redpoint crux jump to the chains! So fun! And...thereโ€™s an extension or two..." (c) Zoltan Papp Maggie did her first 8a being 41 years old and two years later she did her first 8a+. In 2014, being 44 years old she did her first 8b+.

New event app: Smart Scorecard launch at Innsbruck WCH 2018
The World Championships in Innsbruck have started, and besides the official comps, there are a lot of exciting side events. Three boulder jams will take place throughout the next days. For the first time, the newly released Smart Scorecard by Vertical-Life will be used to run these competitions. The web application replaces the use of paper sheets. Climbers can use their smartphone, tablet or a laptop for ticking ascents. Spectators will instantly see the results online or on TV screens on site. For the event organizers, this means that end results are available straight away, there is no paper work and no mistakes happen when evaluating points. At Innsbruck, the Kids Contest by Black Diamond on Sep 7th, the Walltopia Boulder Challenge on Sept 11th and the Rookies Cup by Raiffeisen on Sep 12th will be the first events to benefit from the digital scorecard. The Smart Scorecard has been designed for big and small climbing competitions. Event organizers can get in touch with Vertical-Life ([email protected]) to find out more about the setup.

Double Tops by Ondra but Desgranges is out
Although the difficulty of the routes were almost spot on with only Adam Ondra topping two routes, after some competitors in the start it was noticed that one hold was wrongly placed and some seven climbers were allowed to re-climb the route. On another route, a banner logo was inside the route and unfortunately, Romain Desgranges had been standing on it, meaning the ruling world champion failed to make it to the semi. In fact, also Ondra seemed to have touched but anyhow, if he would have been called down he would still made it to the semi as he was the only to top the other route. (c) JOHANN GRODER - Innsbruck2018.com It should also be mentioned that there were several protests so it was a very hectic day for the jury president. The biggest sensation was that Rudolph Runa qualified to semi as #5. Japan was overall the best nation with five guys through to the semi and seven guys Top-31. Also Italy had a very good result with three in Top-11. Also Austria did get three into semi Top-26. Complete results

101 female Live in Innsbruck WCH with Lead qually
The female have started their two first qualification routes and here you have the updated results and the live streaming. You can also down load the App, "IFSC Lead" and follow the results and via "Innsbruck" stay updated.. Full schedule etc is available on IFSC. Tomorrow the 126 male will do the Lead qualification and it is about to make it among Top-26 to make it to the semifinal. Both male and female compete in two groups doing two different routes so in practice, you need to be Top-13 in each group to make it to the semi. On Saturday, the female will do the semi at 13.00 and the final at 19.00 and on Sunday it is the male with the same schedule.

In general, the 20 top ranked Combined female did really well. 13 made it to the semi: Garnbret, Pilz, Kim, Noguchi, Sa, Shiraishi, Kotake, Nonaka, Klingler, Hily, Lettner, Ekatarina Kipriianova and Hayes. The results for #27 Vita Lukan, #31 Brooke Raboutou, #39 Stasa Geio, #40 Cliare Buhrfeind, #50 Laura Stรถckler, #51 Alex Puccio and #75 Anna Tsyganova. Complete results