NEWS

Two 8a+' by Cathy Wagner (53)
Cathy Wagner has added two more 8a+' and three 8a's to her impressive scorecard the last two weeks. In total the 53 year old has done 687 routes 8a and harder out of which one third second go. During the last 12 months she has done 70 routes 8a to 8b. She has previously said that one laziness but also explanation for her sending so much is that she skips warming up and go right on it. Cathy started climbing being 21 yers old back in 1985 and did her first 8a in 1994 and her first 8b when she was 35. You might wonder how hard she would be capable of if she started projecting a route for some months, instead of just doing multiple rather quick sends of routes up to 8b.

Hazel Grace 8C (B+) by Moroni and Hukkataival
Gabriele Moroni, who won the Boulder WC in Japan in June, has done the second repeat of Hazel Grace in Gottardo suggesting a personal 8B+ grade. Nalle Hukkataival reported on Insta that he did the first repeat just four days ago. This is at least the fourth time Moroni suggested a down grade for an 8C including Highlander last month. In total the Italian has 21 boulders 8B+ and two 8C's recorded on his scorecard but it could at least have been six 8C's. Moroni has been an active IFSC competition climber since 2002, when he won the Youth World Championship. In 2004, being just 16 years old he was #3 in the European Championship in Bouldering. In 2009, he was #3 overall and then he did not make any finals until two times in 2018, out of which one he won, see picture.

Adam Ondra has done the FA of Interklemezzo 9a in Kanjon Tjesno. This was his 163 route 9a and harder out of which he did his first 12 years ago when he was 13. "Amazing wall in Bosnia close to Banja Luka. It was bolted by Peter Schwamberger and during two days at Chill&Drill Fest I made the first ascent. First pitch is 8b+, then hard boulderproblem into technical finish. More projects waiting." More info on his Insta, where he says he has bolted a new line. " It has been a while since I bolted any mega-line and I enjoyed the whole process so much. The curiosity whether the line will go, how the moves are going to be... Lot of uncertain factors but that what makes the bolting so exciting. "

23 September 2018

Super Finals - Female

23 September 2018

Super Finals - Male

Adias Rockstars - Great interactive community show
Jongwon Chon and Jernej Kruder are two of the most entertaining profiles in the bouldering circuit. The "brothers" created a great show in the super final in the Adidas Rockstars and it actually looked like runner up, getting Euro 3 000, was at least as happy as his big dancing brother getting Euro 4 000 in prize money. Many of the invited actually say that this is the most fun competition of the all year and it is always 3 500 and full house. What we can learn from this and also other invitational bouldering events is that the format is not so important. Some sometimes complain about time restrictions and fairness etc but it seems the athletes do not bother as long as there are spectacular problems and intense interaction with the spectators and "brothers and sisters". "Yesterday was crazy night. I enjoyed a lot @adidasrockstars 2018 Final I think I did well last night isnโ€™t it?! :) Only me did it all top final round also I did all top semi and qualification round !! and Iโ€™m sooo happy made super final with my brother @kruderjernej. We promise before competition see you in front of super final boulders and we made it!!"

Nordic Plumber 8c by Katherine Choong
Choong Katherine, #17 in the Lead WCH in Innsbruck in spite of almost only training on rock, has done Nordic Plumber 8c in Flatanger. In the 8a ranking game, she is #2. "Unfortunately, the day of the semis in Innsbruck, I woke up really sick. Stomach and head ache (I even vomit :-( ), my hole body was sore. But at the end, I was able to fight in the route and I'm pretty happy with my performance considering the circumstances. I ended 17th. Then we flew directly to Flatanger. This crag was on my list for a longtime and I have to admit that my mind was blown by the landscape and the impressive cave. To get used to the very steep roof, I first tried the first pitch of Nordic Flower (8b/+). I was so impressed by the super long line of Nordic Plumber that shares the same start as Nordic Flower that I could not resist to try it : almost 60 meters of dynamics moves, underclings, toe and heel hooks above the head on a perfect granit rock with a high red-point crux at the very very top on a slopey rail, where I fell on my second day. To exhausted to try again, I clipped the chains the day after in a good fight and hard mental game. Everthing I love ;)" (c) Esteban Lahoz

Biographie 9a+ by Stefano Carnati
Stefano Carnati, who did his first 9a+ when he was 17 years old, has done Biographie 9a+ in Cรฉรผse. This was actually the 17 ascent of Chris Sharma's mega-classic from 2001 which makes it actually the third most repeated 9a+ in the world after Papichulo (18) and La Rambla (23). (c) Don Mason " I started working on it last July and in September I was able to climb the first part a few times. Back on it this year in May, feelings were much better, but most of the times I struggled to find good conditions. Yesterday everything was perfect: with a strong wind blowing, I felt physically good, my mindset was calm and relaxed! I could not lose one of the very last chances to send it this year! And it all went in the right way!" More comments by Stefano.

Pari 8b+ (c) by Max Bertone (11)
Max Bertone has done Pari in Ouaki (video) giving it a personal grade of 8b+ just like his 13 year old sister Oriane. She has done 27 boulders 8A to 8B (+). Max has done three, the first one being eight years old. (c) Antoine Veillard from an 8b Max did this summer.

Valhalla 9a/+ by Edu Marin
Edu Marin reports on Insta that he has done Adam Ondra's Valhalla 9a/+ in Flatanger. "It has been very important for me to carry out this route after suffering a serious accident falling to the ground from 4 meters. It has been a whole process to maintain the motivation and form during the days of recovery, a whole learning." (c) Esteban Lahoz Edu has previously done some 15 routes 9a to 9a+ and 8c onsights. The Spaniard has also done MPs up to 8c, boulders up to 8B+ and he won the World Cup in Chamonix in 2006.