NEWS

Gancho perfecto 9a (+) by Felipe Camargo
Felipe Camargo, who previously has done one 9a+ and one 8C, has repeated Chris Sharma's 9a Gancho Perfecto in Margalef. Although it was put up ten years ago it only has had five repeats, out of which everyone calling it hard. The Brazilian with 66 000 followers on Insta suggests an upgrade to 9a+. (c) Anva Creative "I tried it for basically 2 months now! But the second month, the end of the route was totally wet! So I just trained in the gym here at Sharma climbing and climbed a lot on the bottom! Now it dried and i did it :) I have two weeks left in Spain and I think I will focus on Bon Combat. I dunno if I can do it but I want to get close and comeback to it. It is amazing."

Pure Imagination 8c+ by Matilda Sรถderlund
Matilda Sรถderlund reports on Insta that she has done Pure Imaginaation 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Andy Wickstrom In 2012, Matilda was #6 in the World Championship and later she focused on getting a Master degree in Business Administration. This year she is back with four routes 8c and harder. โ€So, so happy that I managed to keep it together and send it on the very last day! I was very close about a week earlier and then it got super cold (too cold for me to be able to climb on the crimps of Pure Imagination haha). Then we got one day with perfect conditions and I was able to send it I learnt a lot and enjoyed the process of projecting and all of the mental challenges & mind games that it includes. Pure Imagination is an amazing line (bolted by Kenny Baker), a lot of nice crimps and fun sequences. Canโ€™t wait to come back to the Red for more climbing!โ€

Adam Ondra during the end of his onsight attempt of The Salathe Wall in Yosemite, where he fell on an 8a+ trad pitch.

Six 8c+ in RRG by Hannes Puman
Hannes Puman, #4 in the Euro Championship in 2017, has had an amazing trip to Red River Gorge doing six 8c+'. On the picture by Kristoffer Klev he is doing Pure Imagination but the best one was Golden Ticket. Wow! So how do you like RRG and which was the best route and what about going for a 9a? I like the Red, it's a nice place with a lot of cool routes. The general style is quite basic and the grades are often soft. My favorite route that I have climbed is The tube, the line is beautiful, the holds are nice and it climbs very well. When I did the madness cave in one day I onsighted two 8b+ but I haven't done any harder onsights than that. I think there are two 9a's here but both of them look bad so I don't want to try them. In total i have done over 40 routes 8a and harder (guidebook grades). Grades and climbing 9a are not so important for me. Although it would have been awesome to do Biographie and Action Directe.

Muriel Sarkany, who in between 1997 and 2004 won the Lead WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was runner-up, did Era Vella 9a (8c+) in 2017 when she was 43 years old. The video was just released.

What is a pumped forearm and how to avoid it?
What is a pumped forearm and how to avoid it? presents the theory and some practical tips; - A pulsating or tickling gripping technique - Hands up and squeezing - Running - Dilution and Purification of lactic acid

Golden Ticket 8c+ by Melissa Le Nevรฉ
Melissa Le Nevรฉ, one of the leading competition boulderers in between 2010 and 2016 who also have done 8B+, has done her fourth 8c+, Golden Ticket in Red River Gorge. On her Insta, "I think I havenโ€™t been happier yet to climb a line! Back in 2012, I was very impressed by the line and even more when I saw @adam.ondra onsighting it (which was one of my most inspiring experience in climbing)." Back then it was considered 9a but Ondra he actually down graded it after his onsight. Melissa used a bathang on her send and Jan Novak got it as she practiced it.

Off the wagon low 8C+ by Shawn Raboutou
Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona is an iconic boulder due to the one meter cross over move where you face outwards. It was put up bu Nalle Hukkataival as an 8C but later everyone who has praised it calls it 8B+, video. Now Giuliano Cameroni reports on Insta that Shawn Raboutou has done the low start, 8C+. Just some days ago, Shawn did Foundations Edge 8C and prior to that he made the FA of Lโ€™Oeuvre in Bouddha crag saying it is either 8c+ or 9a. In retro perspective being in the best shape of his life it seems and also always being modest with grading, it just might be a very hard 9a :)

Evolution 8c+ by Ben Moon (52)
In 1990, Ben Moon made the FA of Hubble at Ravens Tor as the world's first 8c+. Today many think it should be upgraded to 9a. Three years ago he repeated Rainshadow 9a and now he once again show the uniqueness in climbing in regards age and performance by doing Evolution 8c+ at Ravens Tor. "Itโ€™s a great end to the year for me which has been one of the best of the past 35 years climbing." (c) Moon Climbing "To be honest I didnโ€™t really do anything different in my training. Just a lot of indoor bouldering and quite a bit of low intensity, high volume climbing (aero cap). I also climbed a lot outside this year. We had amazing weather for most of the year. In May and June I was mainly trying Northern Lights and came pretty close, definitely the best year yet on that route and then easier routes in the Peak District during the summer. I did a route called Hajj at Ravens Tor about 3 weeks ago and although it only gets 8c, several people who have climbed this route and another of the Mecca extensions called Kaaba (8c+) say itโ€™s harder. Hajj is one of the Mecca extensions so you do Mecca to a good rest then you do a route 8b which probably has a Font 7c boulder on it. Really crimpy like most routes at Ravens Tor. I felt fit and strong after doing this route which was good preparation for Evolution. The crux of Evolution is the start which is probably a 3 move Font 8a and then you are straight into a route 8b with no rests. The route is a classic Tor route, sustained bouldering on vicious crimps and a real test of finger strength. I was at the Tor the other day when Pete Dawson did it which was great to see. We both agree that there probably isnโ€™t a full grade difference between Evolution and Rainshadow. Maybe Evolution is hard 8c+ and Rainshadow easy 9a. I think Northern Lights is in a different league grade wise to all these other routes and I reckon one day will be considered 9a+. Time will tell but only 3 ascents in 18 yearsโ€ฆ."