NEWS

Here is a draft of which female have the most impressive bouldering tick list. Please comment to add names or change the ranking. 1. Alex Puccio USA 2. Ashima Shiraishi USA 3. Isabelle Faus USA 4. Anna Stรถhr AUT 5. Karoline Sinnhuber AUT 6. Oriane Bertone FRA 7. Megan Mascarenas USA 8. Shauna Coxsey GBR 9. Alizee Dufraisse FRA 0. Nina Williams USA Mile Heyden GER

Hypothรจse assis 8C+ FA by Charles Albert barefoot
Charles Albert, the famous Font barefoot boulderer, has made the FA of yet another 8C+, Hypothรจse assis. It adds two moves to the 7C+ stand start. "Itโ€™s just another hard boulder, itโ€™s not very beautiful and itโ€™s chipped. I did it because it was dry. It took me three quick sessions and a long one. I donโ€™t think itโ€™s easier or harder with shoes the next project is another hard boulder.โ€ Charles climbs barefoot and he has established and repeated several 8C's and done the Fa of La Revolutionnaire 8C+. The pic by Neil Hart is from an 8B+ in Font.

Three 8A+ by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch has had a great trip to Hueco Tanks where she quickly did three 8A+; Rumble in the jungle, Tequila Sunrise and Phantom Limb (c) Brandon Fox - The Foxes Photography In the Combined ranking game, Michaela is #1 among the female and #13 among the male. "I went into this trip with no objectives other than to have fun and enjoy my climbing. The weather has been perfect and Iโ€™ve been with amazing friends. Couldnโ€™t have been a better trip! Usually I do have plans, but this trip was more for my mental health and enjoyment than for sending super hard projects. My plan for the winter is to train, get stronger, and enjoy the holidays with my family. 2019 is still open ended for me, I really need to start thinking of some good new year resolutions."

Terre de sienne 8B by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done Fred Nicole's Terre de Sienne 8B in Hueco Tanks. "hard dead point.. was trying the bump method for the first couple days... then started trying to go straight up to it and did it that sesh, didn't split any tips!!" Originally it was given 8C, but then Dave Graham came and called it 8B/+. Some continued to grade it 8B+ but now it seems the consensus is 8B. Isabelle, who often gives personal downgrades, has recorded 16 8B's and two 8B+, making her tick list one of the most impressive by a female. In the 8A ranking game, Isabelle is #1.

Perfecto Mundo 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi, #2 in the Lead World Cup the last two years, reports on his Insta that he has repeated Alex Megos Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef which originally Chris Sharma bolted. (c) Javi Pec "I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal..."

Here is a draft of which female have the most impressive sport climbing tick list. Please comment to add names or change the ranking. 1. Margo Hayes USA 2. Angy Eiter AUT 3. Anak Verhoeven BEL 4. Josune Bereziartu ESP 5. Julia Chanourdie FRA 6. Ashima Shiraishi USA 7. Allizรฉe Dufraisse FRA 8. Charlotte Durif FRA 9. Janja Garnbret SLO 0. Michaela Kiersch USA, Laura Rogora ITA, Mar Alvararez, Janja Garnbret, Muriel Sarkany, Barbara Zangerl, Plorence Pinet, Katherine Choong

9a FA by Thomas Dauser in Ulassai
Thomas Dauser has done his third 9a through the FA of Il gusto della liberta in Ulassai. (c) Klaas Willems "So happy!! It was a long way to the top of this dream line. In total, split over two stays, I spent around 10 days working on it, checking out the moves, making link-ups, and finally sending it in perfect evening conditions. I did my first 8c now already 5 years ago and then my first 9a one year ago. My main focus is on climbing outdoors, a lot in Frankenjura. But the last few years I did more specific training as well.

There are several ways on how breathing can improve your climbing and here are some examples. You should try it out or even take some Yoga breathing lessons in order to best use your breathing while climbing. 1. Breath before you set of = Increase focus and concentration 2. Less nervous by thinking of how you breath 3. Get more alert/stronger by hyper ventilation (fast breathing) 4. Improved resting by slow, long and deep breathing 5. A focus on breathing will make you more relaxed while climbing Just close your eyes and focus on breathing and notice what happens in your body and soul and you are half way there.

Southern Smoke 8c+ by Margo Hayes
Margo Hayes reports on her Insta that she one month ago did Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. During the same trip the 20 year old did Golden Ticket 8c+ and probably some more great routes. (c) Jan Novak โ€I had a wonderful time visiting The Red for the first time in a while! I met up with friends from France and was able to spend some time climbing with my dad. Heโ€™s always my favorite partner. I wanted to try a some classics and some routes that looked intriguing to me. I climbed the Golden Ticket and Southern Smoke in 5 tries each.โ€ Including the two 9a+ classics from last year as well as a 9a and other 8c+', Margo must be a contender for having the most impressive ticklist in the world. The only two girls that challenges her are Angy Eiter and Anak Verhoeven.

Leonidio third most popular in 2018
During the last 12 months, 7 298 ascents have been recorded in Leonido making it the third most zlagged in the world after Frankenjura and Kalymnos. Actually, 50 % of the total recorded ascents in Leonidio have beed added just the last year. Kind of remarkable that it is more popular than Rodellar, Arco and Railay Beach together. The second most trendy crag to visit is Kyparissi like 1.5 hour south of Leonidio. The good news is that both these crags situated like 3 hours south of Athens are climbable also during the winter. Here you can buy the guide-book which also comes in an App.