NEWS

Dreamtime 8C by David Firnenburg
David Firnenburg, who the last month has done his second 9a+ and done three 8c+', has done his first 8C, Dreamtime in Cresciano. Two years ago he was #3 in the Combined World Championship and his big goal is now Tokyo 2020. "Fast switch from Spanish lead climbing to Swiss bouldering. Didn't expect the send today because I didn't feel the best but I thought why not giving it a try. And it went very well! First official 8C boulder for me. Psyched! THE Masterpiece in Cresciano. Very technical (heel hooks) and fingery climb. Did a static lock-off from crimp in the middle instead of dynamic move. Good conditions. Supporting crew. Thanks Andi, Simone, Remo and Martin! Stop thinking, just climb!"

Rock climbing is a great nature sport as no constructed arena and limited equipment are needed and that goes especially for DWS and bouldering. At the same time, many of us take the car to the daily cragging and sometimes fly to other countries for climbing. One way of reducing the travelling carbon footprint is to strengthen, develop and marketing the local climbing, which can be done by the local clubs, gyms and magazines. While travelling, train or electrical cars are best and always opt for car pooling. You also have the option to climate compensation meaning that you pay a fee for your travelling. Low budget is the key for accommodation meaning avoiding fancy hotels and instead sleeping in the car or in a tent if possible. In regards equipment, resoling your shoes or buying Mythos Eco Climbing Shoes where 95 % of the material used are recycled are great acts. Edelrid has an Eco rope and a carabiner made partly of steel in order to last much longer. Another way of reducing your carbon footprint is to buy second hand when possible. Please feel free to add further tips how climbers can reduce their carbon footprint.

23 December 2018

Artaburu 9b? by Iker Pou

Palestina 8c+ (9a) by Alex Garriga (20)
Alex Garriga, who started climbing in 2014, has done Palestina in Cuenca giving it a personal 8c+ grade. The 20 year old, who previously has done two 9a', did his first 7c in 2015 and his first 8b in 2016. In 2018, he has also done 27 routes 8a and harder onsight. "I believe that my progress is due to the conditions of where I live and to which I have climbed a lot these years. I climb six days a week. I have more than 1000 routes of all grades in 15 minutes. My goal is just to try to climb all the routes I can."

1974 Bolzano gym made by real Dolomiti rock
The picture is from the "Prac" gym in Bolzano which was opened in 1974 as probably the first in Europe. Interestingly, the gym was built with real rocks from Val Gardena that was delivered by the army in trucks. In the early days, it was only the hard core big wall guys who frequented the gym in the winter. Now it has turned into a somewhat normal gym where part of the real rock walls have been covered by wood and plastic holds. (c) Dennis Moser

Based on 2 100+ unique votes, Female Sport Climber of 2018? 35 % Janja Garnbret 32 % Margo Hayes 11 % Jessica Pilz 07 % Isabelle Faus 03 % Alex Puccio 12 % Other

Estado Critico 9a (8c+) by Lucas Marques (37)
Lucas Marques has done Estado Critico in Siurana famous for being onsighted by Alex Megos as the first 9a in the world. Later 8c+ have been suggested or indicated by some. In total, the superb route has 35 ascents making it the most popular 9a in the world. (c) 100 limite filmes "Such a great route! Long, bit bouldery and pumpy to the end. Hard shoulder moves in the end. So fanatic! About the grade it is harder than all the 8c+ I ever try and did, also, who am I to downgrade the first 9a onsight of the world. Lets celebrate and have fun! Thank you everybody who support me along this journey... Brasilll!!!Vamooo!!! It took some months on 'real tries' last season and around 15 tries this season. I trained with the Brazilian coach Gustavo Fontes for a month that gave me the last power I needed. After all I was prepared and in a perfect day it came by it self. Was a hard mental battle for me..."

Artaburu 9b? FA by Iker Pou (41)
Iker Pou reports on Instagram his FA of Artaburu in Margalef. No grade was mentioned but the 41 year old, who previously has done four 9a+', says it is his hardest route ever. In 2000, Iker did the second repeat of Action Directe 9a. More info coming up. ยฉJordi Canyi "ARTABURU ": WITHOUT DOUBT, THE HARDEST ROUTE I HAVE EVER DONE! I had a dream and finally it has come true: I'm very happy and I still can not believe what could have gotten me up there. I had to be very Artaburu (Cabezรณn or brute in Euskera) to get it enchained. It has been the greatest physical and mental struggle I have ever faced. I have finally been able to climb the most futuristic route I have ever bolted. Undoubtedly, it is the most difficult thing I have ever managed to do, infinitely harder than everything done so far."

Railay at risk due to safety issues
Bjรถrn Alber, aka Dr 8a, reports that the titanium bolts from 2005 on his route Beauty and the Beast have been cut down due to pressure from thai marine park rangers. "The pressure originates from the viral popularity this route got on youtube. This poses two treats. Firstly; people startled to jump out on the stalactite on toprope (you were supposed to lean out) posing a risk of stalactite breaking, secondly; due to the popularity and so many new โ€œgym ratsโ€ without the necessary skills , the accidents on the route increased dramatically. This year we also see more tourists climbing up to access ladders on the crags- most of them unfit to do so and some of them even drunk. The Thai authorities have no real interest in climbing and more accidents (even involving non climbers) will likely result in a total close down of all Railey climbing. Please help to keep us climbing here by climbing safe!"