NEWS

Lynn Hill was the best female climber in the world in 1990 when she won the World Cup and did the first female 8b+. Remarkable to say the least as she in May 1989 had fallen 22 meters into a tree in Buoux as she had forgotten to tie in properly! In 1993, she made the FA of The Nose and graded it 8a. The consensus grade is now 8b+! In 2008, she did Chblanke 8A (+) being 47 years old and now 11 years later she is still pushing hard and has done the Orb 8a in Boulder Canyon.

Climbing is getting out there more and more on the public scene. Now you can see The Dawn Wall on Netflix.

Pachamama 9a+ by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin, who previoudly has done 32 routes 9a to 9b, has done Chris Sharma's 50 meters test piece Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. (c) Jon Cardwell "This line is for me one of the best in Oliana (or the best). Thankโ€™s Chris Sharma for bolting this one. I tried it last year but weather was a disaster. It was wet every time. This year it took me two little travel (1.5 weeks both). Next plan, maybe other route in Oliana and Spain. But the main plan is to be ready for Move in Norway (Flatanger).

Climb 500 m to enter VL's prize raffle
"Have you started prepping for your summer climbing trip? Jump into this month's Challenge to get yourself ready. Climb 500 meters and you'll be entered into the prize raffle, where you can take home goodies from sponsors like @lasportivagram, @bergfreundede, @chillaz.international, @borealoutdoor and @frictionlabs. TIP: Zlags collected from Training Plan workouts are also counted among the meters climbed. Create a single-day training plan at your gym, on the app, for free, and start Zlagging your climbs! Join the app and take part in the challenge!โ € More info."

1. Fanny Gibert - Jรฉrรฉmy Bonder 2. Naile Meignan (15) - Arthur Ternant 3. Hรฉlรจne Janicot - Manu Cornu 4. Maรซlys Agrapart - Sam Avezou (17) 5. Lucile Saurel - Mathieu Ternant 6. Manon Hily - Mickael Mawem Fanny, #3 in WC 2018, got her fourth French Bouldering title and Jรฉrรฉmy won his third. From the Tokyo perspective, both Sam and Mickael are among the fastest non-Speed specialists.

Climbing has published an article on Facebook that quickly has created a debate in regards Honnold's free solo - "Uncomfortable Truths, But Ignored Others" "The film ignores two important things:" 1. The film crew created some motivation for Honnold to go for it. 2. The film crew made it more simple for him to bail out. I certainly do not think these two important things were ignored in the film. On the contrary, they dealt with it perfectly. However, even if they had been ignored, I do not see a problem with this. The only thing that I think was ignored was how big risk of death did Honnold face? When we judge how irresponsible Honnold was towards his family and friends, it only comes down to the risk of death. Of course, the risk can not be measured in percentage but I do think Honnold's risk for falling to the ground up on El Cap was much lower than the risk of death, the guys pushing themselves towards the top of K2 face. If this is true, we should question every person trying to summit K2 instead of saying Honnold and his film crew was irresponsible. 8a has had a policy to not publish free solo ascents except exceptional ones which have reached mainstream. In the early days of 8a, before this policy, we several times did receive emails where climbers asked if they would get a headline on 8a if they did a certain route free solo.

Samuel Ometz, who did Dreamtime in Cresciano giving it a personal 8B+ grade, has done Chromosome y in Chambery giving it a personal 8c+ grade. "Good bouldery route! Two days, didn't use a knee pad. Hard to grade for me as I was only bouldering the past three months. 1st boulder felt not so bad (more fb8a than 8b) and the rest was just pumpy even though not so hard, fell five times after the boulder crux including twice at the very end, haha." Adam Ondra did call it as "Soft" when he flashed it and also Alexander Rohr thought the same doing the send repeat. The route was put up by Pirmin Bertle who has had climbs being downgraded before.

Davide Carena, who started 2019 by doing his first 8c+, has done Last Man 8c (+) in Albenga. The next day, the 15 year old did Sevedemos 8B+ (c).