Slovenia did dominate the female qualification in Chongqing where Janja Garnbret and Katja Kadic won their respectively group. The two million country also had Lucka Rakovec as #3 and Vita Lukan as #11. Interesting is that the Speed specialists Anna Tsyganova and Anouck Jaubert set personal best being #31 and #39. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - Jain Kim #7.

Seb Bouin has done another 9a, Super Finale in Rawyl in just four tries. It total, he has now done some 35 routes 9a to 9b. "It was the most extreme conditions of the year. First day we only climbed one route, it was cold, super windy, and waterfall from the crag was falling on the belayer... Second day we were stronger in the head, and it worked"

During the Speed qualification in Chongqing, we can see that both the Specialists and the Boulderers, set new standards. Kokoro Fujii did 6.62 which is the second fastest ever, after Mickael Mawem at 6.34, by a none-Speed specialist. Manuel Cornu was runner up at 6.68 and Jan Hojer third at 6.76 among the big names. Another eight did were below 7.2 seconds, so we are talking a big general improvement. Among the female, Janja Garnbret set a new personal best with 9.46 being #3 among the none-Speed specialist after Elena Krasovskaya at 8.96 and Sol Sa at 9.41. Kyra Kondie was fourth at 9.56 followed by 16 year old Oceania Mackenzie at 9.64. Akiyo Noguchi, Petra Klingler and Julia Chanourdie did also go below 10 seconds. Complete results

It’s Dolorock time! From May 24 to 26 the seventh edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place all around the Three Peaks. For three days, there will be climbing, celebrations and discussions at the cross-language and cross-border event. Over time, Dolorock has become one of the largest sports climbing events in Europe. Join and be part of it! Program: Friday, 24/5 at 9pm: drive-in cinema at the Dobbiaco indoor climbing centre. Saturday, 25/5 from 10am to 5pm: Dolorock Red Point Fight at the climbing crags in Val di Landro. 7:30pm: award ceremony with many non-cash prizes. Afterwards party, dance (Pink Armada), food and drinks. Free camping. Sunday, 26/5: climbers’ brunch and Yoga for climbers.

YiLing Song has set a new World Record by 7.101 seconds in the Quarterfinal run, dispatching the old mark of 7.32 held by both Iuliia Kaplina and Anouck Jaubert. Song continued winning as she also did in the first event. (c) Eddie Fowke Among the male, Alifan Muhammed won his first event. His fastest time was 5.91 which actually was slower then the all the Top-5 best times. Two weeks ago Akifan was #24 and his best in 2018 was #6. Video of the finals. Complete results

During Boulder World Cup finals, normally each boulder are lighten up by a spotlight just few minutes before the first person enters. Then the holds are in constant spotlight and get continuously warmed up for some 24 minutes. This means that the conditions deteriorate minute by minute which make the last climber, the winner of the semi, face the worst friction. It should be noted that in the Olympic finals with eight climbers, the last climber face holds that have been in the spotlight for some 32 minutes. The simple solution to get more fair conditions during the finals is to use led-spotlights.

Babsi Zangerl reports on Insta that she has done Atlantic 8c and Missing Link 8c+ in Voralpsee. (c) Jacopo Larcher who just did Speed Integrale 9a. First day she checked the moves twice and then after a rest day she sent it directly after placing the draws and checking the moves again. "I couldn't train so much this winter due to an nerve compression on my old broken disc. I had to rest 7 weeks. So right after the climbing break I started with rock climbing again. It was a big surprise. I definitely think it fits definitely my style." Ten years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including one 9a and several 8c+' she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she has done several 8b+' and 8c. Even so, big-walls and multi-pitches should be her best discipline with three FFA's in Yosemite up to 8c. So she is the best female multi-discipline rock climber out there, and in fact, a rather superior #1.

The Chongqing World Cup starts on Friday with Speed qualification and Finals. Interesting is that Adam Ondra once again skip Speed and that Shauna Coxsey and Miho Nonaka are not present. Nonaka has been injured but is scheduled for competing in Wujiang the following weekend. Coxsey has the last week posting swimming, bouldering and surfing pictures on her Insta from Marocco. Sunday GMT +8 09.30-11.45 Men & Women Bouldering Semi-finals [LIVE] 17.00-18.30 Men Bouldering Final [LIVE] 18.30-20.00 Women Bouldering Final [LIVE]

Rock & Ice has made a nice portrait of Kyle Roseborrough who died in Leonidio ten days ago "when an anchor failed as he lowered." It should be mentioned that it is not clear what happened as no problem with the anchor bolts have been reported. Kyle (45) was a very experienced 8b climber.