1. Tomoa Narasaki 260 JPN 2. Adam Ondra 204 CHE 3. Kokoro Fujii 190 JPN 4. Rei Sugimoto 179 JPN 5. Aleksey Rubtsov 159 RUS 6. Anze Peharc 154 SLO 7. Jernej Kruder 151 SLO Complete results Interesting is that both Tomoa and Adam have just done three events. Further more as Tomoa and another four of the best Japaneses will skip Munich in two weeks, anybody ranked in Top-20 can still win theoretically. However, in practice it is probably a battle in between Ondra and Narasaki with Peharc and Kruder as the first challengers. The ones having not performed up to standard are especially Sean McColl with 31 points and Alex Megos with 49 points but also Alex Khazanov with 63, Gregor Vezonik with 81 and Jakob Schubert with 84 points. It should be mentioned that for the non-Japanese, the Munich WC is the best option to get a good score for the Combined World Cup 2019.

Janja Garnbret was the only one topping all four boulders in the semi and she only needed six tries. Among the male Japan set a new standard with six guys among the best including also all Top-3 positions with Kokoro Fujii winning. In total, there will be three female, including 15 year old Ai Mori, and four male from Japan in the final. Interesting is also that Jakob Schubert and Jan Hojer made it to the finals for the first time in 2019. Adam Ondra coming back frombeing sick the last weekend was #14. Complete results

1. Luce Douady 44 (5) FRA - Nicolai Uznik 14 AUT 2. Celina Schoibl 44 (9) AUT - Mikel Molina 13 ESP (1,4) 3. Urska Repusic 34 SLO - Alfons Dornauer 13 (1,7) Complete results The Norwegian coach Reino Horak reports ony positive comments for the comp. "Good organisation and vibes throughout the competition. Exciting until the end and the boulders were fun. I am really looking forward to more European Cups in the future. "

Like always, Janja Garnbret won her qualification group topping all five boulders in six tries. In the second group, Petra Klingler won getting four tops. Among the next ten ranked, eight come from Asia out of which all five representing Japan. Naile Meignan (15) was #7 in her group making it to the semi. Interesting was also that Anouck Jaubert, who was #3 in Speed was #29 and that YiLing Song (18) who has won two Speed events in 2019 was #43. A total of ten female did not get any zone. Complete results

All the big names made it through to the Top-20 semifinal in Wujiang but last weekend winner Manuel Cornu. Jongwon Chon won one group ahead of Adam Ondra both in seven attempts. In the other group, Kai Harada and Meichi Narasaki did all boulders in first try. Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik got the last two spots and that must have been super thrilling especially for Kruder who started first. In the end there were four guys having topped the first four but ended up with just a zone on the last boulder. Last weekend, Manuel Cornu won after having been the last to qualify to the semi and in Moscow, Adam Ondra was #2 after the same situation. One explanation for this is that starting first in the semi means often better conditions and friction as well as longer resting time in between the final. Complete results

Mishka Ishi has repeated Dai Koyamada's 8C Byaku-dou in Horai, after some days 20 projecting it during one year. This means she has set a new world standard for 13 year old's. It is a 25 move roof which has been done once before. Mishka is the second female to have done an 8C after Ashima Shirishi who did Horizon at age 14. She begun climbing being 6 years old and later her mother has started to climb. Previously she has done four 8B's and Nyu-Metsu 8B+ so her ticklist puts her among the very best. No hard routes yet but she is trying an 8b+. "I have no trainer. I think and act by myself. It is so much fun but there is always someone who takes me to the rock and he is Jun Shibanuma. He travels to all parts of the globe and he is a wonderful climber. He talks about the rocks in the world and to tell the truth I had him interpret for me. I am learning English."

1. Adam Ondra CZE - Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Jakob Schubert AUT - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Miho Nonaka* JPN 4. Kokoro Fujii* JPN - Jessica Pilz AUT 5. Mickael Mawem FRA - Petra Klingler SUI 6. Jan Hojer GER - YiLing Song CHN** 7. Jernej Kruder SLO - Julia Chanourdie FRA 8. Alex Megos GER - Sol Sa KOR * Only two from each country is allowed to participate. There are several more especially male Japaneses that could be Top-4 if they qualify. ** Most of the best female Speed specialist have also participated in Bouldering. Any of them winning two events have a great chance getting Top-8 in Tokyo.

Vladislav Shevchenko, who did his first 8c+ at age 16, has done his first 9a, Max Factor in Bahchisaraj after four days of projecting. In 2017, he won the European Youth Cup and last year he was #45 in the WCH in Innsbruck. "This year I plan to play in World Cups in Villars, Chamonix, Kranj and World Cups in China. In the autumn I want to go to Spain and try to get through there a few more tracks of category 9a and 9a+."

Miho Nonaka, who has been injured, did her first WC start in the Speed event in Wujiang and set a new personal best at 8.90. The second best non-Speed specialist* was Elena Krasovskaya at 9.10. Most of the big names were around 10 - 12 seconds, including Janja Garnbret at 11.12 probably due to a slip as she did 9.46 last weekend. Among the male, Kokoro Fujii was second fastest among the non-Speed specialist at 6.64 only beaten by Mickael Mawem at 6.57. Third was last weekend's bouldering winner Manuel Cornu at 6.75. Another eight male did go under 7.3 and below so the field is tightening up. Complete results *Only counting the ones frequently in semis in Bouldering and Lead. (c) Eddie Fowke