NEWS

Rรจveille-toi 9a FA by Laura Rogora (18)
Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a (8c+) Grandi Gesti being 14 years old, has done the FA of Rรจveille-toi 9a in Cueva di Collepardo. (c) Marco Iacono In total the 18 year old has done six routes 9a (8c+) or harder and as a matter of a fact, Anak Verhoeven is the only female who has done more. Two years ago, she was, within two weekends, #6 in the European Championship as well as in the Chamonix World Cup. Last year she won the Boulder Youth World Champions as well as three Euro Youth Cups in Lead.

Two 8A+' by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber is back on track in bouldering after a finger injury she got three months ago with two 8A+'; Der Nihilist and El Gauhara in Zillertal. "1st go today after my 1st session a week ago. Shape is here again! I didn't take a rest after the injury happened, I just switched to routes because itโ€˜s not so aggressive for the fingers. I'm still not able to fullcrimp with my pointer. My other three fingers adapted to fullcrimp without it, but I donโ€˜t have 100% fingerpower. Due to my booked trip to Rocklands in July I started with my bouldering training again a month ago and adapted my Rocklands ticklist haha (no super crimpy boulders). (c) Stefan Welkhammer

220 youngsters up to 14 years old participated in the Youth Color Climbing Festival in Imst. Interesting is that Bulgaria was the best country and in general Eastern Europe dominated. Everyone climbed at least six routes and in the qualification the belayers were parents, coaches and friends. 12: Nina Hentschel SUI - Timo Ossig GER 14: Martina Bangeeva BUL - Andrei Rapa Darius ROU Complete reults

Circo total 9a FA by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz Rullo, who just did his first 9b, Planta de Shiva and two more 9a's in Villanueva del Rosario, has moved to Cuenca where he did the FA +f Circo total 9a. This is a link up in between Circo ibรฉrico 9a+ and Seta total 9a. Talo Martin helped out with follow up questions and Javi Pec with the picture. After having done four routes between 9a-9b's in 3 days, what will be next? I have many projects but overall I want to keep enjoying as I have been doing, and also I have vacations time now and many trips in my mind. Do you feel that this could be the beginning of your life as a professional climber? Yeah, I would like to hear that, live about climbing is a dream for every climber, but the truth is that here in Spain is very difficult ... So now I'll keep studying my career, training and climbing as I always do.

Headcrash 8c by Sarah Kampf (38)
Sarah Kamf (born Seeger) has done her sixth 8c, Headcrash in Frankenjura. Ten years ago she did her first 8c and when she had done three she had two children. Since 2017, this was her third 8c, all of them in Frankenjura (c) Markus Bauer "I tried Headcrash for the first time rather by coincidence as we were looking for a child friendly crag and ended up at a sector nearby. I was immediately psyched to try it as the line and moves are amazing. Due to work and family obligations I had to plan my sessions strategically and sometimes went there on my own. It was very enriching to experience full focus and tranquility during these sessions. I also had nice days with family or friends at the crag, making the whole journey full of contrasts between absolute silence and lively family routine. On the send day, we were there with the whole family and maybe that was the key to success - not being fully focused and thus not feeling pressure or nervosity at all." More info and pics on her Insta.

Epochalypse 8B by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has done her 27th 8B, Epochalypse in Flagstaff. Adding another five 8B+' and she has the most impressive female scorecard. In the annual ranking game the 29 year old is #3. (c) Ben Spannuth "First time trying this extension to Trice. We went up to just hang out and have a little climb and then I found that I could repeat Trice pretty easily so decided to put some extra moves into it and sent! Went quite quickly. Now for a fun park day tomorrow!"

Quite frequently we get mails in regards questioned grades and ethics used by the top climbers. These guys always want to stay anonymous but they send them in, in order for the news to be correct. Take it with a pinch of salt but here they are. It should be noted that historically, when we get this type of news frequently, they are often down graded once the news is out. 9a: Papichulo 9a and Thors Hammer 8c+: Estado Critico 8c+, Era Vella, Underground, Cabane au Canada, Esclatamasters, Bain de Sang, Jungle Speed, La Reina Mora 8B+: The Big Island, Practice of the wild, Spray of Light 8B: The Never ending story, Golden shadow, Mooiste Meisie It should be mentioned that many of the above have previously been questioned. Further more, we sometimes receive info in regards climbers using bad ethics in regards onsight ethics or using too many crash pads etc. Normally we inform the climbers but clearly we do not publish such info as we expect it also sometimes come from "competitors".

La grosse Tarlouze 8C Christof Rauch
Christof Rauch has done the first repeat of Michael Piccolruaz' La grosse Tarlouze 8C in Magic Wood. It is a 40+ moves link up combining the famous Unendliche Geschichte with La Tarlouze. "You continue on the big rail to the left. From there its about 16 moves (for me) to a good rest on the top jug of Massive attack (till there is the crux) then there is another little sequence where you can fall when you are too pumped or you have bad luck, then you mantle into the slap (no hand rest) and climb a easy highball slab to the top. Only tried it here and then as a little sideproject, but since I canโ€™t crimp properly at the moment I decided to give it some tries. Seems like all the open handed and slopertraining the last weeks payed of and I managed to make the second ascent of this great endurance testpiece. Already had a pretty good session last year, where i fell 4 times at the last hard move. Today, I fell another 2 times at the very end but then I was lucky enough to fight my way to the top. Thanks to Markus for the huge support and the essential beta."

Planta de Shiva 9b and two 9a's by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his first 9b, Planta de Shiva in Villanueva del Rosario which Adam Ondra put up. It has previously been repeated three times including Angy Eiter. (c) Javi Pec The day after he also did Mangarbo and Mandanga total, both 9a's. In the 8a ranking game, he is #1 in the Combined ranking game. More info to come.