The three male Japanese who got all the three medals in Briancon, in their first Lead WC in 2019, have not been selected to participate in the World Championship in Tokyo. Instead they send another six more qualified male which suggest that Japan, with the best boulderers in the world, will dominate at their home turf. Among the female, Japan is also one of the best nations and we predict we will see a new record Japanese domination in the Tokyo World Championship 11-21 August. Out of the 24 medals, the prediction is 9 medals and that they will get at least double as many country points as the runner up (Slovenia). The Top-7 in the Combined will qualify to the Olympics with a max 2 country quota, beside Japan who only have one as they will select their second person later. Here are the Top-10 who also will quality to the Olympics beside the Japan country quota. 1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Adam Ondra CZE - Miho Nonaka JPN 3. Jakob Schubert AUT - Chaehyon Seo KOR 4. Yoshiyuki Ogata* JPN - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 5. Kokoro Fujii JPN - Ai Mori JPN 6. Alex Megos GER - Jessica Pilz AUT 7. Kai Harada JPN - Shauna Coxey GBR 8. YuFei Pan CAN - YueTong Zhang CHI 9. Jernej Kruder SLO - Futaba Ito JPN 0. Jan Hojer GER - Mia Krampl SLO * Ogata has said on Insta that he has not been selected to participate on all three disciplines which is strange as he is in the official starting list.

Ben Burkhalter, who did his first 8B one year ago, has done Blade Runner 8C (B+) in RMNP in just three sessions. The 17 year old started climbing at age 12 and he is #3 in the junior ranking game. (c) Sam Weir ”WOW! Can’t believe it! Felt pretty good on the stand last month when I was here but wanted to save skin for Jade. This go around I came back to the boulder hoping to do the stand and possibly put in some work into the full line. The temps were much warmer this time forcing Sam and I to have to get up at 4:30 in the morning just to get some half decent temps! Managed it in just 3 sessions; 1 day for the stand, 2nd day I linked the bottom into the stand but got absolutely shut down on the 1st move of the stand, then took two days rest and did it 3rd day! Temps were pretty freak for July and the rock felt sticky. I felt strong on it and luckily the first time I stuck the gaston crux move I sent! Still in disbelief at the moment!! Easily my hardest boulder to date and fits me pretty well too. I think very upper end v14 or lower end v15 so for now, until more people give it a try 14/15 seems right to me. *One more note* it is a little bit harder now because the last hard move from the gaston pulling through to the jug is now a good bit harder because the full hand jug has broken off to a sharp full pad crimp making that move pretty tough from the bottom!”

James Webb has done his third 8C in Rocklands during the last three weeks, Parzival. " 2nd ascent. One of the best new hard lines in Rocklands. 20+ moves revolving around all styles. Another stunner from Dave (Graham)!" (c) Keenan Takahashi Jimmy is #1 in the ranking game and as a matter of a fact his 12 150 point is a new All Time High record in the 8a 20 year history.

karoline sinnhuber has done her fifth and sixth 8B, Ray of Light and Ubuntu (personal 8A+ grade) in Rocklands. (c) Zeno In the 8a ranking game, Karo is #4 but without personal grades, she would have been #3. How can you explain being in your best shape in life? I am happy about my shape cause I trained really a lot for the trip so I am glad it paid off. I had a long ticklist with hard boulders and I knew I can‘t do all of them. The first 2 weeks I did not send anything which was bad for my ego and motivation. Aa soon as I sent my first boulder the send train started!

Vadim Timonov and Irina Kuzmenko have finished their trip to Rocklands in great style. Irina did Tail of The Caracal 8A+ and Vadim did Noise vs beauty 8C as well as The Book Club 8B+, pictured by Nikita Tsarev Vadim is #7 in the ranking game and Irina is #10. Now they are back in Russia for a three weeks preparation for the World Championship in Tokyo.

BIG NEWS! The new, upgraded app will be released next week! Over the past months, our team has worked on an enhanced navigation and menu structure, advanced filtering options, and a new training feature. More details coming soon. Stay Tuned!

Its aim is to examine the various aspects of route setting for the first time in a comprehensive study. The study would like to identify and highlight significant standards, similarities and differences, and to promote the exchange and networking within the worldwide community. The results of this international survey will be published in the November 2019 issue of the Route Setter Magazine. Completing the questionnaire takes about 15-20 minutes. Please dedicate this time, share your experiences, opinions, and wishes! The questionnaire is available in English, German, French, Spanish and Japanese.

karoline sinnhuber, who previoulsy has done four 8B's, has done two 8A+' in Rocklands; Black shadow and The wee baby shamus which she thinks is 8A. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian former competition boulderer is #4. (c) Fabian Leu

Chaehyeon Seo (15) from Korea did her first ever World Cup two weeks ago and got a sensational silver. Then she won in Chamonix and now also in Briancon. Janja Garnbret did also top the final but lost due to count back. Natsuki Taniii (16) got the bronze. Interestingly, Janja borned 1999, was the oldest finalist. Among the male, although Japan did not send their best crew got all three medals. Hidemasa Nishida (16), youth world champion last year, did his first WC in 2019 won after having been #8 in the semi. Also the runner ups, Hiroto Shimizu and Shuto Tanaka had not participated in the two first WCs in 2019. (C) Eddie Fowke Interesting is that Japan who has dominated the boulder scene for many years now also is #1 in Lead ahead of Slovenia. Complete results

1. Chaehyon Seo KOR 280 - Alex Megos GER 165 2. Janja Garnbret SLO 217 - Sasha Lehmann SUI 152 3. YueTong Zhang CHI 164 - William Bosi GBR 122 4. Natsuki Tanii JPN 145 - YuFei Pan CHI 117* 5. Mia Krampl SLO 137 - Domen Skofic SLO 110 6. Ai Mori JPN 120* - Sean McColl CAN 104 7. Lucka Rakovec SLO 114 - Adam Ondra CZE 100** 8. Ashima Shiraishi USA 102* - Hidemasa Nishida JPN 100** 9. Jessica Pilz AUT 96* - Jakob Schubert AUT 89* 10. Vita Lukan SLO 94 - Martin Stranik CZE 84* Complete ranking Another two female and male in the Top-14 ranking have skipped one event. As seven athletes will qualify to the Olympics in the WCH, one might assume that these guys will skip WC events in order to travel less and train more. The same goes even more for the ones who have qualified to Toulouse. In other words, it just might be that most of the best will skip several WC events and that the winner of the (male) Lead World Cup will not compete in Tokyo 2020.