NEWS

Red Bull has presented the great video Age of Ondra - "Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world by far... Like, he's a lot better than everybody else" - Alex Honnold

Kmeฤka malca-Butnskala 8c by Ema Seliลกkar (14)
Ema Seliลกkar, who did her first 8c+ two months ago, has done Kmeฤka malca-Butnskala 8c in Kotecnik in just one session. The Slovenian has been #5 in both a Lead and Boulder Euro Youth Cup this summer. "I am so happy that I could climb it and can't wait for the upcoming comp in Arco (Youth World Championship) to show my best form and than for trip to Spain to find some new projects.โ€

La rรฉcrรฉ dominicale 9a FA by Mathieu Bouyoud
Mathieu Bouyoud has done his tenth 9a FA, La rรฉcrรฉ dominicale in La Balme. In total, the French has done 21 routes 9a and harder and he is #6 in the 8a ranking game. "I bolted "La rรฉcrรฉ dominicale" 4 years ago. I try for the first time this long roof last year. I finish the job this year! The first part is one 8c "dissidence". It's a 20 meter extension."

La moustache qui fรขche 9a+ by Hugo Parmentier
hugo parmentier, who was #43 in the last Lead WC, has done his first 9a+, La moustache qui fรขche in Entraygues. (c) Jan Novak "I have spent 6 days on it and 15 goes. It was my goal for this summer. The route is short and powerful. I really love this kind of style. I spent some days working on it with hardcore heat. Then with cooler temps it went. Yeahhh! For the end of the summer I need to find a multipitch/bouldering or single pitch project or maybe a bit of all, we'll see. Then in September some bouldering in Fontainebleau!"

Alihulk extensiรณn total sit start 9b by Jorge diaz-rullo (19)
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his second 9b, Alihulk extensiรณn total sit start in Rodellar. "Undoubtedly a real fight of those who leave you empty. Many thanks to everyone in the area and to Jonatan (Flor) for the methods that took a lot of tries! It has been amazing! 1st rep after Jonatan and 4 days of work this year." The 19 year old is #3 in the route ranking and in the Combined ranking, he is a superior #1. (c) Javi Pec

Ali Hulk extension total sit start 9b FA by Jonatan Flor
Jonatan Flor, who previously this summer has done a 9a+ and two 9a's, has done the FA of Ali Hulk extension total sit start 9b in Rodellar. it is a link-up including a sit start of 15 moves into a new 9a+ extension. (c) Javi Pec

Speed and a Lead/Bouldering Combination have been provisionally included in Paris 2024. Here is the results of a poll, "Which two set of medals in 2014?", including some 900 unique respondents.The results shows very strongly that the 8a climbing community is in favor of skipping Speed and instead give the two set of medals to Lead & Bouldering. Which two set of medals in Paris 2024? 87 % Lead & Bouldering 11 % Speed & Lead/Bouldering Combined - as suggested by IFSC 01 % Bouldering & Speed 01 % Lead & Speed

Solitary souls 8c+/9a FA by Alfredo Webber
Andrea Gennari Daneri from Pareti reports that Alfredo Webber (50) has done the FA of Solitary souls 8c+/9a in Arco. Originally it was a Nico Favresse project which later Lorenzo De Bonis rebolted. It is 35 m tall and 20 m overhanging with a 10+ m run-out. Video Two years ago the 159 cm tall did his first 9a commenting. "Iโ€™m close to 50 years and now I work full time in a quarry, five days a week, 8 hrs a day. I wake up at 7am, breakfast, then 20 kms drive to the quarry. Back home at 6pm. Two days a week I have training on my wall at home. Itโ€™s a 1h 30โ€™ work, basically long sequences, with intervals of some harder moves; then some hangs on crimps. When Iโ€™m projecting something hard for Sunday I have to rest on Friday and Saturday, otherwise I get weak. Iโ€™m less powerful than 20 years ago, but now I know myself better and I manage better my energies."